DIY Coffee Table with Cane Clover Shaped Cut-Outs

I’m getting ready to overhaul our playroom and turn it into a fun “tween” hangout space, so we will need a few new pieces of furniture for the room. Today I’ll show you how I made this DIY coffee table with cane quatrefoil or clover shaped cut-outs. This was a bit of an experiment for me since I’ve never worked with cane webbing before nor have I cut such intricate shapes in anything, but luckily it didn’t prove to be too difficult.

Disclosure: This post is sponsored by Home Depot. All opinions are my own.

Project Supply List:

Ridgid Jig Saw
Ridgid Compact Router
Ryobi Brushless Impact Driver
Circular Saw
Pocket Hole Jig
Orbital Sander
Drill
2 – 17 1/4″ wide project panels cut to 3 ft. long each
3 – 1×6 boards cut to 17 1/4″ long each
2 – 2×2 boards cut to 3 ft. long each
4 – 2×2 boards cut to 14 3/8″ long each
2 – 2×2 boards cut to 10 1/2″ long each
Wood Filler
Primer
Paint
Small paint roller and paintbrush
Cane Webbing (You can order a roll online)
Staple Gun
Scissors
Quatrefoil/Clover Template (You can download a free printable template like the one I used here.)
Speed Square
Measuring Tape
Pencil
2″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Wood Screws
1 1/2″ Wood Screws
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws

Step 1: Cut Your Wood

First, I cut (3) 1×6 boards to 17 1/4″ long each. These will serve as the sides and middle cubby divider of the coffee table.

I cut (2) 17 3/4″ wide project panels to 3 ft. long each, and these will be the top and bottom of the table.

I cut (2) 2×2 boards to 3 ft. long each, (4) 2×2 boards to 14 3/8″ long, and (4) 2×2 boards to 10 1/2″ long, and these will make up the base of the table.

Step 2: Trace Your Template

Next, I set one of my boards aside and measured and marked the center points on the remaining two boards. Then, I centered my quatrefoil template and traced it with a pencil. You can find a free printable download of this template here.

Then, I measured the center point between the edge of the quatrefoil and the outer edge of the board. I did this on each side of the middle quatrefoil shape and then centered the template on each mark and traced it, leaving me with 3 quatrefoils on each of the two boards.

Step 3: Cut Your Shape

I clamped down my board and drilled a large hole in the center of my shape. The hole needed to be large enough for my jig saw blade to fit.

I used my Ridgid Jig Saw with a scroll blade to cut my shape, and I found that going slow was key, and it was easiest to cut away small chunks at a time rather than trying to cut out the whole shape in a single pass. I repeated this process until all of my shapes had been cut out.

This jig saw has brushless motor technology for extended run time and motor life, and it comes with a blade and vacuum attachment. It has a line start mode option on the variable speed dial which creates a more efficient cut by allowing you to start slow and increase your speed once the blade engages the material. It also has a variable speed trigger and adjustable orbital action for more precise cutting. It had been a while since I had used a jig saw, but I was really happy with this one.

Step 4: Sand Your Shape

I used a sander attachment on my Dremel Micro to clean up the perimeter of each quatrefoil and to sand the edges smooth. You could hand sand with a sheet of sandpaper but this was quicker.

Step 5: Attach Your Sides & Middle Divider

I used a pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes in one side of each of my clover cut-out boards and my divider board, then I used 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach them to one of my 3 ft. long project panels. This will eventually become the top of the table when we flip it over later.

Step 6: Build Your Base

I drilled pocket holes in each end of 2 of my 14 3/8″ long 2x2s and attached them to my 3 ft. long 2x2s using 2″ pocket hole screws, creating a large rectangular frame.

Then, I drilled pocket holes in each end of 2 of the 10 1/2″ long 2x2s and on one end of each of my 14 3/8″ long 2x2s. I attached each of the 14 3/8″ long 2x2s to 2 of the 10 1/2″ long 2x2s, creating two “C” shaped pieces.

I attached the “C” shaped pieces to the rectangular frame using 2″ pocket hole screws.

Step 7: Attach Your Base to the Table Bottom

I laid what will end up being the bottom of my table down and placed my base on top of it. (We are working upside down and will flip the whole thing over later.) I attached the base by predrilling holes with a countersinking drill bit and then attaching it with 1 1/2″ wood screws.

Step 8: Route Your Edge

I used my Ridgid Compact Router to subtly round over the top edge of my table. I used the 1/4″ roundover bit that came with it. I realized that my middle divider board was in the way so I temporarily removed it until I finished routing the edge. I lightly hand sanded afterwards.

This compact router is lightweight and easy to handle. It has up to 15% more power than previous models, and the quick release lever and micro-adjust dial allow 2 ways for easy depth adjustments. SOFTStart technology helps prevent gouges on work surfaces and extends motor life. I don’t use routers often but I was super impressed with this one.

Step 9: Fill Holes and Patch Knots

I used wood filler to fill any knicks or small holes and to patch over knots in the wood to prevent bleedthrough later on. After it dried, I sanded it smooth.

Step 10: Prime and Paint

I used a good stain blocking primer, and after it dried I painted two coats of Behr Marquee paint color matched to Sherwin Williams Tricorn Black. By the way, you can find my furniture painting tutorial here.

I originally painted the whole thing teal but I didn’t love the look of it with the cane, so I’ll use it somewhere else in the room since the color itself was pretty. I finished it off with a water-based Polycrylic topcoat.

Step 11: Attach the Top to the Base

I predrilled holes on each side from underneath using my countersinking drill bit, and then I used my Ryobi Brushless Impact Driver to attach it with 2 1/2″ wood screws.

My favorite feature of this impact driver is the 1/4″ auto-load chuck for quick and easy one-handed bit changes. It’s also super powerful, with 2,000 in./lbs of torque. There’s a 3 speed switch on the rear of the tool, and the tri-LED lights minimize shadows.

Now, the table is done!

For more project ideas, you can visit my project gallery here.

Check out the video tutorial here:

Disclosure: I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the promotional program described above (the “Program”). As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.