How to Build a Wood Planter {Tutorial}

I promised last week that I would show you how I built my DIY Chevron Planter, so here it is: A tutorial for how to build a wood planter! I know it seems like an odd time of year to be building a planter, but I really wanted something to display my fall mums in on our front porch. If you’d rather save this project for spring, feel free to pin it for later!

Here’s what you’ll need:

• 1 – 2×12 at 8 ft. long
• 1 – 2×4 ( Just a scrap – about 16 inches total in length)
• 2 – 1×2 at 8 ft. long
• Sliding Compound Miter Saw
• Cordless Brad Nailer
• 2-inch Finish Nails
• Wood Glue
• Drill
• Sander
• Paintable Caulk or Wood Filler (if you’re imperfect like me)

I of course used my beloved RYOBI tools for this project. (RYOBI Sliding Compound Miter Saw, RYOBI Cordless Brad Nailer, RYOBI Cordless Drill and RYOBI sander.) They’re my fave.

The only thing I purchased for this project was the 2×12 for about $15.00 at Home Depot. Everything else I had on hand, including wood scraps used for the trim and feet, and the paint. You can modify the size of the planter or type of trim you add depending on what you have on-hand, if you do happen to have scraps lying around.

I’ll be honest, I didn’t really have a concrete plan going into this build. I knew the relative size I wanted it to be, and the general look I was going for, but didn’t design it before-hand or anything. I just sort of pieced it together and I was lucky that it turned out ok in the end! Luckily this build is very basic and great for beginners, especially if you’re looking for ways to try out a compound miter saw. Normally, I have “plans” in front of me, and for most projects that’s definitely the way to go. But the good news is, now I’ve written out the build plans and I’m sharing them with you!

Cut List:

4 – 2×12 at 18″ long (for the sides)

1 – 2×12 at 14 1/2″ long (cut to fit – this will be the bottom)

4 – 1×2 at 13″ long (at longest points) Cut to fit with beveled ends at 45 degrees, not parallel

4 – 1×2 at 15 3/4″ long (at longest points) – Cut to fit with beveled ends at 45 degrees, not parallel

2 – 1×2 at 16″ long (at longest points) – Cut to fit with mitered ends at 45 degrees, not parallel

2 – 1×2 at 13″ long (at longest points)  – Cut to fit with mitered ends at 45 degrees, not parallel

4 – 2×4 at 4″ long (for the feet)

Assembly:

Now it’s time to piece it all together like a puzzle! This is the easy part. You will assemble, glue, and nail it all together with your brad nailer using 2 inch finish nails. The final dimensions are approximately 22″H x 11 1/4″W x 14 1/2″ L.

First, put your sides together, forming a rectangle shape.

Your “side” pieces will be glued and nailed to your front and back pieces.

Then place your “bottom” piece on top and nail it on. I attached my feet last, but you can do it at this point if you’d prefer. Then, flip the whole thing over.

Attach your trim next, adding the bottom and top perimeter pieces first, and then the top pieces with the mitered ends to create the “lip”.

At this point, I flipped the whole thing back over to add the “feet.” I lined the corners of the feet up with the corners of the bottom piece, not the trim. I wanted them to be set back farther than the trim rather than have them come all the way to the edge.

Ideally you will have superb carpentry skills, but since I don’t, I just caulked the gaps. Important: Use paintable caulk! I used Dap brand paintable caulk in white. (Or you could use wood filler.)

Be sure to drill several holes in the bottom to allow for drainage.

Now it’s time to paint or stain. You can find a full tutorial for how I did the chevron paint treatment here.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave those in the comments section!

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Thanks for visiting!

-Erin