You may remember quite some time ago I made this DIY abstract art, and I recently sold it since I’ve been making over my living room/office and wanted something new to go in its place.
I decided I wanted some black and white abstract art, so I built another DIY drop cloth canvas, and this time I also added a handmade frame. See how I did it, below! (You can also check out the YouTube video for this project linked at the bottom of this post.)
Disclosure: This post is sponsored by Home Depot. All opinions are my own.
- 1×2 boards: (2) cut to 3 ft long each; (2) cut to 4 ft long each; (2) cut to 39″at longest ends, with beveled ends not parallel; and (2) cut to 50″ at longest ends, with beveled ends not parallel.
- 6’x9′ Canvas Drop Cloth
- RYOBI ONE+™ Drill/Driver Kit
- RYOBI 60 PC Drilling and Driving Kit (no longer available so here’s a 65 pc set)
- RYOBI ONE+™ Impact Driver Kit
- Paint (I used Behr Marquee in White 52 and Onyx)
- RYOBI Crown Stapler
- 3/4″ Staples
- 1 1/2″ Construction Screws (and wood glue if desired)
- Gold Spray Paint
- Spray Primer
- Sanding Block
- Miter Saw
- RYOBI Brad Nailer
- 1 1/2″ Brad Nails
HOW TO MAKE DIY ABSTRACT ART WITH A HANDMADE DROP CLOTH CANVAS AND FRAME
STEP 1: CUT YOUR WOOD
First, I cut my 1x2s into (2) pieces at 3 ft. long each and (2) pieces at 4 ft. long each with my miter saw. I lightly smoothed the rough edges with a sanding block.
STEP 2: DRILL HOLES
Next, using my RYOBI ONE+™ Drill/Driver Kit and a countersinking drill bit from my RYOBI 60 PC Drilling and Driving Kit, I predrilled two holes at each end of the longest two boards. This kit includes 60 drill and drive bits with a carrying case, and it offers a wide variety of bits for a variety of applications.
And as for the drill/driver kit, it has 500 in-lbs of torque for extra power plus upgraded batteries and charger for overall improved performance. I have always loved RYOBI tools and this one is no exception.
STEP 3: ATTACH YOUR BOARDS
I used my speed square to keep everything square while I joined the boards together by screwing 1 1/2” construction screws into each of my pre-drilled holes using my RYOBI ONE+™ Impact Driver Kit. This impact driver has 1,800 in-lbs of torque for increased drive speed, upgraded batteries and charger, plus a new lower retail price.
STEP 4: ARRANGE AND TRIM YOUR DROPCLOTH
I laid the drop cloth on top of my frame and cut the excess off, leaving a few inches of extra cloth around the perimeter of the frame.
I used a 6′ x 9′ canvas drop cloth for this project but of course you can modify the dimensions of this canvas to suit your personal preference, and then use an adequately sized drop cloth for your specific canvas size. You just want to make sure it’s a bit larger than your desired canvas dimensions so there is plenty of excess cloth to staple to your frame.
STEP 5: DEWRINKLE
I needed to get the wrinkles out so I used my steamer but it just wasn’t working as well as I hoped since the canvas was so thick, so I ended up taking it inside and ironing it. Then I brought it back out and laid it face down on the ground and placed the frame on top of it.
STEP 6: STAPLE DROP CLOTH TO FRAME
I used my RYOBI crown stapler and 1” staples to attach the drop cloth to the frame. I started on one of the longer sides and just folded over the cloth and stapled every 3-4 inches or so.
Next I moved to the other long side and pulled and stretched the canvas as tightly as I could before folding it over the frame and repeating the stapling process.
When it came time to do the two shorter sides, I first needed to address the corners. I cut little squares out of each corner to reduce bulkiness, and then I was able to fold it over and staple it.
You just have to sort of play around with it until you get it as smooth as possible. After I did one corner, I stapled along that side until I reached the end and then folded over that corner the same way, cutting away bulk and then stapling it in place as I folded it over.
I repeated the same process on the other side. After each side had been stapled to the frame, I trimmed away the excess cloth. Then, I stapled the edge of the drop cloth to the inside portion of the frame.
STEP 7: FLIP OVER AND REMOVE LINT
When I was finished stapling, I flipped the entire canvas over and used some painter’s tape to get the lint and debris off of it since I didn’t have a lint roller handy, and then propped it up a tiny bit by placing pieces of scrap wood underneath each corner. This allowed for me to paint it more easily.
STEP 8: PAINT BASE COAT
I painted it with two coats of paint and primer in one. I used Behr Marquee in White 52 which is the same color I painted the walls in the room this piece will be going in.
I wanted to use paint that I already had on hand, and I knew I wanted this piece to be black and white anyway, so it worked out well. I started with a roller but quickly realized that I was going to have to press down pretty hard on the canvas and I didn’t want to cause any sagging, so I switched to a brush. I painted the entire canvas and let it dry before applying a second coat since the first coat went on a little bit splotchy.
STEP 9: PAINT ABSTRACT DESIGN
After the two coats of white paint had dried, I went in with my black. I used Behr marquee in Onyx and a wide paintbrush.
I painted the bottom few inches solid black and then started painting upward brush strokes so that the black covered the bottom half of the canvas, and the upward brushstrokes created a feathered effect at the top. I just played around with it until it looked the way I wanted it to, and here’s where you can have fun customizing your own art with any colors or design you choose.
STEP 10: BUILD AND PAINT FRAME
After I finished the painting, I wanted to build a frame. You can stop here and leave it frameless if you’d prefer, but I decided to add one.
I set my miter saw to a 45 degree angle and cut 4 pieces of 1×2 board to fit, so I held them up to the canvas and marked them so they would be exactly the right length.
They ended up being cut to the following dimensions: 2 pieces at (39″) at longest ends, with beveled ends not parallel; and 2 pieces at (50″) at longest ends, with beveled ends not parallel. This will create mitered corners.
I sanded them lightly with a sanding block and then sprayed them with primer. When the primer dried, I spray painted them gold.
STEP 11: ATTACH FRAME
When the frame pieces dried, I attached them to the canvas using my brad nailer and 1” brad nails, making sure to set the depth to countersink. You can putty over the nails if you want to but the holes are so small I didn’t bother.
I used a wall anchor and screw to hang it on the wall. And here it is!
Check out the YouTube video for this project here:
Disclosure: I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the promotional program described above (the “Program”). As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.
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