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How To Paint Furniture: A Beginner’s Guide

January 9, 2022 By Erin Spain 495 Comments

How to Paint Furniture: A Beginner's Guide

Hello friends! While refinishing furniture can be time consuming and hard work, it is well worth it when you see the outcome and know that you have created a custom piece of furniture for your home. Today I am sharing an easy tutorial for how to paint furniture.

This is a very basic “beginner’s guide”—or Furniture Painting:101. (Check out the end of this post for a video tutorial on my YouTube channel!)

Disclosure: Affiliate links included. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

How to Paint Furniture: A Beginner’s Guide

About the Tutorial

Although I have learned a lot about painting and refinishing furniture, I wasn’t always all that knowledgeable. I have painted several pieces for my home, and most of them I did totally WRONG! I know it sounds like it should be so simple – you just grab a paint brush and paint, right? Nope!

If you want a professional-looking finish that is going to last (that’s the key – you don’t want it to start chipping and peeling away), then there are a few guidelines that you need to follow.

Although there are many furniture refinishing techniques, today I am going to cover just the absolute basics of painting. I realize that some of my readers are furniture painting veterans, but many of you are not. This guide applies to real wood furniture – I will talk about painting laminate another time.

Ok, so let’s get down to business.

Project Supplies:

  • Murphy’s Oil Soap
  • Medium Grit Sandpaper
  • Fine Grit Sandpaper
  • Primer
  • Tack Cloth
  • Paint
  • Paintbrush
  • Foam Roller
  • Paint Sprayer (Optional)
  • Topcoat (I like MinwaxPolycrylic and Finishing Wax. I also loveMinwax Satin Wipe-On Poly for stained pieces.)

HOW TO PAINT FURNITURE

Step 1: Prep, prep, prep!

First, prep your piece of furniture. You can’t just slap on a coat of paint and call it a day. It will peel and chip and it will not last.

The first thing I like to do before I paint a piece is to give it a good cleaning (after removing the hardware, of course), especially if it’s been sitting around in a dusty garage or storage space. Murphy’s Oil Soap works great and it’s safe for furniture.

Remove all drawers before painting and work on those separately.

Step 2: Sand

Next, sand your furniture and get all of the glossy finish off so that the paint will have a good surface to “grab” onto. Medium-grit sandpaper should be fine. (I use fine-grit between paint coats.)

If you are painting as opposed to staining, there is no need to strip the finish or sand it down to the bare wood. Simply removing the glossy finish will suffice. If the surface is already dull, you can skip this step.

Step 3: Prime

After your furniture is dry and dust-free, paint on some primer. This helps your paint adhere to the piece better and it also covers any stains or discolorations in the wood. I prefer KILZ Primer, and they also offer it in a spray (which I haven’t tried yet, but plan to!). I’ve heard great things about it. Oil-based primer is also great for furniture.

Priming table for paint

Step 4: Sand Again

Then, sand again! Using a fine-grit sandpaper, lightly sand your piece between EVERY SINGLE coat of paint. This helps you attain a much more professional and even finish.

Be sure to remove the sanding dust each time—tack cloth works great.

Removing dust from sanded furniture with a tack cloth.

Step 5: Paint

Now that you have your piece primed and ready, it’s time to paint. For furniture, I use interior latex paint, usually in a semi-gloss finish. I recommend anything that’s not a flat finish. (It will show every fingerprint and flaw and will be harder to clean.) The glossier the finish, the easier to clean.

Paint thin coats, and I will repeat: sand between each coat! This step is very important if you want to achieve an even finish. I normally paint 2-3 coats total.

Now, there are a few different ways to go about painting. You can use a paint sprayer, or even regular spray paint (just get a decent brand!), a brush, or roller. I usually use a small foam roller on the main parts of the furniture and a brush in the hard to reach crevices, painting the crevices first. The roller helps prevent visible brush strokes.

Blogger using a paint sprayer to paint a rocking chair.

Step 6: Protect

After your last coat of paint has dried for at least 24 hours, you are ready to seal it. (Or you can just leave it alone and let it cure for about 30 days. But if you plan on doing this, then seriously, leave it alone and don’t touch it!)

Sealing your furniture provides extra protection for your finish and also creates a wipeable, easy to clean surface.  If you are using a white or extremely light color of paint, I highly recommend that you do NOT use polyurethane to seal your finish. It can yellow over time. On any other paint color, it should be fine, and I recommend Minwax Wipe-On Poly because it is extremely easy to use. (I like the Satin finish.) 

I really prefer to use a water-based topcoat though like Minwax Polycrylic. It’s easier to clean up and there aren’t as many fumes.

Another option, which I love, that can be used on any color including whites, is furniture wax. Minwax Finishing Wax is awesome, and I’ve heard good things about other brands as well. You just wipe it on (I use cheesecloth to apply it), let it dry for 10-15 minutes, and then buff it with a clean cloth until you get it as shiny as you want it. This is what I used on my dresser.

After you’ve sealed your furniture, I recommend leaving it alone for a day or two before using it or touching it. It would be a shame to cause damage to all of that hard work by handling it too soon!

Applying furniture paste wax with a cheesecloth.

Add your hardware, and you’re done! You can also distress the piece if you’d like, or just leave it as is. The dresser in the photo was just slightly distressed using fine grit sandpaper. I distressed it after my last coat of paint and before applying my wax.

Paint has an amazing power to transform any piece. Here are a few pieces that I’ve painted:

Kids' artwork displayed on clipboards above painted dresser.
Painted dresser with stained top.
Painted hall table.
Dresser painted green for a kid's room.

I hope this tutorial has been helpful for you! If you have any questions about how to paint furniture, please feel free to leave a comment and let me know.

UPDATE: I am often asked for my furniture paint recommendations so I wrote a post comparing chalk paint vs latex paint to help you determine which is best for you.

Here is my tutorial in video form on my new YouTube channel!:

You Might Also Like:

  • How to Strip Paint off Furniture
  • Best Furniture Paint: Chalk Paint vs Latex Paint
  • Woodworking Tools for Beginners
  • How to Tell if Wood Furniture is Real or Fake
  • How to Paint a Striped Wall
  • The Best Paintbrushes for a Smooth Finish
  • My Favorite Painting Tips & Tricks

Feel free to explore my Project Gallery here.

Questions? Comments? Let me know! I love hearing from you.

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Thanks for visiting!

-Erin

Filed Under: DIY, Furniture, Home & DIY Blog, Popular Posts, Tips & Tricks, Tutorials

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Comments

  1. Ashlie Ortega says

    March 27, 2012 at 2:01 pm

    this is beautiful. You are amazing!!!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      March 27, 2012 at 2:59 pm

      Thank you so much! You are too kind.

      Reply
      • Laura Wright-Dixon says

        November 14, 2017 at 4:00 am

        Hi Erin,

        I love the shape of the photograph you have of your children. What is this called and where did you get it done? I have been looking for different ways to display our Wedding photos and this is perfect.

        Reply
        • Erin Spain says

          November 15, 2017 at 10:14 pm

          Thank you! It’s a quatrefoil. I made it and you can find a tutorial here: https://www.erinspain.com/quatrefoil-photo-wall-art-tutorial/.

          Reply
  2. Pookiebear says

    March 27, 2012 at 8:01 pm

    Erin, have a question, what if a dresser has already been painted over. I have a black dresser, I want to paint off white. How should Kim approach this? Also the drawers of this dresser has glitter and up raised patterns of paint on them, definitely would sand those, right? Any ideas would be appreciated.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      March 27, 2012 at 8:46 pm

      Sounds like a very interesting piece of furniture! 🙂 A couple of options: You don’t necessarily have to strip the existing paint off, as long as you can sand it and then prime it. (It may take a couple coats of primer – and they make special primers for painting over dark colors.) Now, with the glitter issue – if you can’t get it sanded smooth (try a power sander if necessary), you might want to consider stripping that part. There are lots of paint strippers on the market, and I’ve heard great things about a particular product called “Smart Strip” that will remove several layers of finish.

      The most important thing is to get the existing paint job sanded so it’s all even, otherwise your new paint job is not going to look even. You want a smooth finish in the end. Hope this helps!

      Reply
    • Monica says

      April 10, 2014 at 8:21 pm

      I can’t believe I’m going to paint my bedroom set but I made up my mind,I’m doing it..been reading a lot online and no one is doing what I want to do which is this painting g it white then destressi g it going over that with a oak stain or darker to tone it down and rubbing it off..then I was putting a clear coat just on the top. Do you think that will work…

      Reply
      • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

        April 11, 2014 at 7:34 pm

        Hi Monica! You can do that, however I have found that mixing the stain with glaze allows it to dry more slowly so you can wipe it and blend it better. I did it to my boys’ dresser using this tutorial: http://www.sweetpickinsfurniture.com/2011/01/how-i-glaze-furniture.html. I didn’t even end up using a topcoat because the glaze is pretty durable and it has held up really well with two boys playing with toys on it, etc. Hope this helps!

        Reply
  3. Sarah AKA The Thriftress says

    April 9, 2012 at 11:43 am

    Excellent tutorial! It’s so hard to follow all the steps when you are excited to see the finished project but it’s worth it!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 9, 2012 at 12:21 pm

      Thanks Sarah! Yes, it is definitely hard to be patient when you just want to see it finished.

      Reply
  4. Niki says

    April 11, 2012 at 9:04 pm

    Hi Erin!!

    I love the transformation…looks really pretty with the black and white! Thanks for giving all the instructions!!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 2, 2012 at 12:18 am

      Thanks Niki!

      Reply
  5. Anonymous says

    June 2, 2012 at 12:04 am

    Hello Erin, simply stunning, i’d love to know the exact colors and paint you used for your dresser, looks like a creamy beautiful color, wanting to redo our master bedroom set.. thanks much

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 2, 2012 at 12:17 am

      Thank you very much! I used Benjamin Moore’s White Diamond Semi-Gloss paint, and Minwax brand Ebony stain for the top. If you go to the Search box in my sidebar and type in “Refinished Dresser Reveal,” you will find a post specifically about this dresser and it walks you through everything I did and every product I used. Hope this helps! Good luck with your furniture redo!

      Reply
  6. leanncox says

    June 23, 2012 at 5:00 pm

    Erin–LOVE LOVE LOVE what you did with your dresser!!!!!
    LeAnn @ This Southern Girl

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 23, 2012 at 5:35 pm

      Thank you so much LeAnn!

      Reply
  7. Business Office Furniture says

    July 17, 2012 at 5:53 pm

    Keeping with what everyone else has shared… Thanks again and again! The tips you’ve shared will come in super handy this weekend. The hubby and I are repainting our mantle.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 18, 2012 at 1:15 am

      Thanks so much! Good luck with the mantle. I’d love to see how it turns out!

      Reply
  8. Kristopher A. Denby says

    July 26, 2012 at 1:23 pm

    Great advice! And, yes, a sprayer cuts the time by more than half. It also achieves a really nice, even finish.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 27, 2012 at 12:35 am

      Thanks, Kristopher! Just recently got a sprayer and I can’t wait to use it for a project. I’ve played around with it some and love it so far!

      Reply
  9. Anonymous says

    August 4, 2012 at 1:53 pm

    Hi Erin

    I would like some advice. My Daughter of 8 yrs has a white bunk bed. She has decided to go with a touch of gold in it.
    I have sanded some of the white off to give use an antique look.
    Please could you tell me how to finish this off with the gold look?

    Regards
    Nicky

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 4, 2012 at 8:53 pm

      Hi Nicky! Ooh, adding gold sounds like fun. There are a few things you can do. They make “gold leaf” that you can use for furniture (I’ve never tried it, but if you google it you can find lots of info on it). This or just metallic gold paint would be pretty added to the areas where you’ve distressed it. OR if there are carvings or any details on the bed, you could just use a thin artist’s brush to paint the gold on inside the detailing. OR you could stencil a design onto the bed with gold paint. Or just use a cloth dipped in gold metallic paint and rub on the distressed areas. Or if you’re really brave, you could hand paint a design. Can’t wait to hear what you end up doing with it! Feel free to post a photo onto my Facebook wall when you’re done so we can all see it! http://www.Facebook.com/DIYOntheCheap

      Reply
      • linda salvio says

        May 24, 2014 at 6:14 pm

        Hi, I am new to this furniture painting craze. I have been to home depot and a neighborhood hardware store investigating new products. Benjamin Moore actually has a line of metallic paints. They have a color brochure. Perhaps you could google or go to the Benjamin moore website and look into these metallics. There is an aqua one that is so pretty. They show a palette of about 20 color choices including silver and gold. Martha Stewart line of paints and faux finishes is at the home depot also offering metallic finishes. They are so pretty. What I was wondering about is a primer product that eliminates the need to sand. It claims to bond to any surface. Anybody have any experience to share about this type of product. Sounds too good to be true..right! I think I will give it a try on something small to test it but I would appreciate any feedback if you have tried this method. Thanks, Linda

        Reply
        • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

          May 26, 2014 at 7:05 pm

          Hi Linda! I have tried the Martha Stewart metallic paint and like it a lot. As for the primer you mentioned, I haven’t tried anything like that, however I do know that if you use chalk paint instead of latex then there is no need to sand or prep the surface. There are several brands that offer chalk paint (not to be confused with chalkboard paint) and you just seal it with a wax.

          Reply
  10. Anonymous says

    August 6, 2012 at 9:35 pm

    How do you find out if your piece of furniture is solid wood or not? I have a black entertainment center I am wanting to paint but, I am not sure of the prep procedure because I am not sure of the material. Thanks

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 7, 2012 at 1:52 pm

      This is a very good question, and actually a great idea for a blog post. I’ll try to post one soon.

      There are a few ways you can tell if it’s real wood. The first good indicator that it is real wood is the weight. If it’s super heavy, it’s probably solid wood as opposed to particle board or laminate, etc. Also, if it’s laminate, it’s not going to have any visible wood grain. Another good indicator of real wood is dovetail construction. Slide open a drawer and look at the side of it. Are there tongue and grooves where the drawer meets the drawer-front? If so, it’s solid wood. Are there varying patterns of grain visible all over the piece? Can you feel the grain? It’s probably wood. Veneer can sometimes have grain but it’s usually the same pattern repeated over and over. Also, if you look at the side of the piece, you will be able to see where a sheet of veneer is attached to the wood. Also, look under the piece and see if it is unfinished wood or veneer. Veneers are often covered from top to bottom.

      Now, all of that said, you can paint anything. If you are planning on painting as opposed to staining, you can paint veneer, laminate OR wood. Just be careful sanding veneer as you do not want to damage it. If you’re painting (not staining), you don’t need to strip the finish, simply sand, prime and paint.

      Hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions.

      Reply
    • daystar says

      March 10, 2013 at 1:23 am

      For clarification: with veneer piece that has been painted, it is ok to sand the top coat of pain? We just bought a piece off of craigslist for our dining room and were excited to simply install. As we moved it, light bumping caused the pretty cream colored paint to scrape off and reveal black paint underneath. Then, just putting dishes on it did the same. We clearly need to repaint. It seems the paint is pretty fresh. (We noticed the smell when we got home, so let it sit for 4 days before any attempt to put it in the house.) So, can we just sand the top coat, or do we need to get to the original veneer and then sand?

      Thank you.

      Reply
  11. Unknown says

    August 18, 2012 at 5:42 pm

    Did you paint your hardware?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 18, 2012 at 5:51 pm

      I often spray paint hardware but for this piece I left it alone.

      Reply
  12. Anonymous says

    August 27, 2012 at 7:53 pm

    Hi – just finished my first DIY project and used your site as a guide. I painted a French provincial dresser white, spray painting the hardware black. It came out beautifully. A week later I am ready to move it to my daughter’s room and notice it has yellowed quite a bit. I did use the Minwax Wipe On Poly you recommended for light/white furniture. Any suggestions? Since the room we are using it in has black and stark white fabric I definitely cannot leave it yellowed. Thanks for your help! I can’t wait to move on to project number two!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 27, 2012 at 7:57 pm

      Oh no! Sorry for the misunderstanding. Please see the paragraph called “Protect” toward the end of the above post. I recommend not using polyurethane on white furniture because it will cause it to yellow. I only use polyurethane on colored paint or stain. For white furniture, I either allow it to cure for 30 days or wax it (Minwax finishing paste in “natural” is a great choice). If I were you, I would sand it to get the glossy poly finish off, give it another coat of the white, let it dry thoroughly and then wax it. Just apply the wax with cheesecloth, let dry 10-15 minutes and buff with a clean white cloth. Then leave it alone for at least 24 hours before moving it! Hope this helps, and sorry your furniture yellowed!

      Reply
      • Holly says

        September 29, 2016 at 12:58 pm

        Thanks for the clarification. I am reading you post and taking notes. I plan on painting a wood dresser white this weekend.

        Reply
        • Erin Spain says

          October 2, 2016 at 4:55 pm

          Awesome! Good luck!

          Reply
  13. Anonymous says

    August 27, 2012 at 8:06 pm

    Of course I misread the paragraph!! I expected to have some mishap with my first project 🙂
    I’ve already started sanding and have plenty of paint left. My next stop is for Minwax finishing paste!! Thanks again.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 27, 2012 at 8:28 pm

      Please let me know how it turns out! I’d love to see a pic when you’re done!

      Reply
  14. Alex says

    September 6, 2012 at 6:11 pm

    Very nice, thanks for the great explanation!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 10, 2012 at 9:05 pm

      You’re welcome! Thanks for stopping by!

      Reply
  15. Jenna says

    September 27, 2012 at 9:34 pm

    Erin, do you sand even if you use spray paint? I was thinking of trying a high quality spray paint for a desk I’m going to refinish. If there are no brush strokes, is sanding between coats still necessary?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 27, 2012 at 9:40 pm

      Hi Jenna! I would defniitely sand before priming and spray painting, but I don’t believe it’s necessary to sand between coats aside from just touching up any drips that may have dried. Hope this helps!

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 27, 2012 at 9:40 pm

      P.S. Please excuse my typo!

      Reply
  16. Jenna says

    September 27, 2012 at 9:54 pm

    That’s what I figured! Also, I didn’t even see the typo until you pointed it out! 🙂

    Reply
  17. Anonymous says

    September 30, 2012 at 2:00 am

    Hi Erin, Thanks for your website! I am going to paint an old table/coffee table. I have sanded it, primed it but now I’m dumbfounded about how to get small containers of paint. I want to use about six different colors but all the paint store has are quarts or gallons. They do have some small samples but they are not a semi-gloss and the paint man said they might fade as they’re used to put on your wall and paint over when you decide which one your want. Any ideas where to get small amounts of semi-gloss paint?
    Thanks!
    Bonnie

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 30, 2012 at 2:09 am

      Unfortunately aside from samples, I’ve never seen it in less than a quart. The only other option I can think of is sometimes there are super cheap cans of paint in the “oops section” at the hardware store which people have returned or decided they didn’t want. You could always check there to see what colors are available, and keep in mind you can always mix your own! Grab a few colors and blend them to get a shade you like. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  18. Anonymous says

    September 30, 2012 at 11:21 pm

    Oh, thanks that’s a good idea to check paint store for rejects. Also, I realized that some artists’ acrylic paints might work so I’m going to check at my local art store. I would just have to be sure to seal it well with a non-yellowing sealer as some of the colors will be light. Thanks! We’re always learning!
    Bonnie

    Reply
  19. Uhussain says

    October 3, 2012 at 7:58 pm

    Hi Erin, Great post thank you for the instructions! I have a quick question, I have an Ikea dresser which i want to paint white – it is currently black/brown. If i sand it do you think that will be ok or will i need a paint stripper?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 3, 2012 at 8:03 pm

      Hello! You will not need to strip it. Sanding is fine, just be sure to use a good primer!

      Reply
    • Uhussain says

      October 3, 2012 at 8:24 pm

      Thanks Erin, I am in Canada Toronto – what is a good primer do you know?

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 3, 2012 at 9:30 pm

      I use Kilz but have also heard that Zinsser is good.

      Reply
    • Uhussain says

      October 4, 2012 at 1:55 pm

      I bought Zinsser, hopefully it works well.. Thanks!

      Reply
  20. Sri says

    October 16, 2012 at 12:01 pm

    My wardrobe has a laminated finish. Yes, that is a large thin piece of wood that is glued onto a piece of compressed wood chips. How do I paint that in white? Sanding will not be a good idea. Thanks.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 16, 2012 at 3:06 pm

      Hello! For laminate, you can sand it but you just have to be very careful. I would just lightly hand sand it with a finer grit sandpaper, taking special care around the edges. You just want to rough up the surface enough for the paint to be able to grab on. I have sanded laminate several times with no problem. And of course use a good primer. The problem is that if you don’t sand, the paint will not grab on and it will chip and peel off (which I have also experienced). Another option if you really don’t want to sand is to try Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. (Not to be confused with chalkboard paint.) I haven’t tried it yet but know lots of people who recommend it, and it will stick to any surface and does not require any sanding or prep. It is a little pricey but from what I hear, it’s well worth it. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  21. Le Trung Thanh says

    October 17, 2012 at 3:27 pm

    I much like your blog
    Thank for sharing

    Thanh Le
    My Blog: http://www.homedesign9.com/

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 19, 2012 at 1:57 am

      Thank you Thanh Le!

      Reply
  22. Jenet Bestuhlung says

    October 18, 2012 at 11:54 am

    I’ve found Lots of necessary information from your blog. Just bookmark your blog for more explore! I will definitely share this post with others. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 19, 2012 at 1:57 am

      Thanks Jenet!

      Reply
  23. Anonymous says

    October 30, 2012 at 5:40 pm

    Hello, thank you so much for this blog. I have been wanting to repaint my daughters dresser white, that is currently painted black. It actually looks just like your dresser, but I believe it is plywood, or some other form of wood. Would I follow the same instructions that you gave to Sri, since its not real wood?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 30, 2012 at 7:37 pm

      Yes, I would recommend sanding lightly and use a good primer. You may need a couple coats of primer since you’re painting white over a dark color. Be sure to lightly sand between coats too. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  24. Anonymous says

    November 3, 2012 at 11:18 pm

    Hi Erin! I am getting ready to take on my first furniture painting project and this has been extremely helpful. I do have one question though. I acquired the dresser extremely cheap at a rummage sale. It was in a child’s room and the dresser top is a veneer laminate. There are about a dozen dime to quarter size areas of damage where the laminate is completely gone and some of the areas are slightly raised. Would I just lightly sand around the areas and try to sand raised areas down? then precede with prime and paint? This doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect because it is going in my toddler’s room, but as a point of pride, I would like to do the best job I can. Thank you so much! Andrea

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 17, 2012 at 1:01 pm

      Hello! Sorry for the delay. Somehow I missed your comment! I would use a wood filler on the spots where laminate is missing and then lightly sand the whole thing smooth. Follow with primer and paint. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  25. Lehiep Phu says

    November 8, 2012 at 10:16 am

    các dòng sản phẩm nội thất văn phòng, nội thất gia đình dành cho thiết kế :
    để cho một bản thiết kế nội thất văn phòng, nội thất gia đình, nội thất trẻ em đẹp điều đầu tiên bạn cần có là các mẫu mã nội thất gia đình, văn phòng , trẻ em đẹp là điều bạn cần , vì vậy online 360 cung cấp cho các bạn ,gia đình , công ty bạn các mẫu mã đẹp tiêu chuẩn để tạo cho một bản thiết kế nội thất gia đình, nội thất văn phòng, nội thất trẻ em tuỵêt vời.

    Reply
  26. Serwis sprzątający Warszawa says

    November 8, 2012 at 2:12 pm

    Now i know how to clean up my home properly 😀 Thanks 😀

    Reply
  27. Anonymous says

    November 13, 2012 at 5:23 am

    Hi, I was wondering if you need to paint in a certain temperature? It’s getting cold in the northeast and I’ve been wanting to paint some items but I’m not sure if the paint would crack. Also, where do you usually do your painting? Outside or inside? Thanks! Great tips for beginners like me!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 17, 2012 at 1:06 pm

      Hello! It is important that you paint when it’s not too hot or cold. There are temperature guidelines on the paint can which you should follow for proper application. I typically paint in my garage, but I live in the South where it doesn’t get super cold. Sometimes I paint inside the house, especially if a piece is way too heavy to lug in and out. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  28. Anonymous says

    November 17, 2012 at 2:17 am

    I want to paint black over black. Are all primers white?

    Also what about scratches? Sand them out? fill?

    Thanks

    C.B.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 17, 2012 at 1:09 pm

      They do make tinted primer which is gray, and it is especially for use with darker paint colors. If you go to the paint counter at someplace like Home Depot or Lowes and explain what you need, they can match you up with the right primer for the job.

      Reply
  29. Kayleen Babel says

    November 25, 2012 at 3:44 am

    Hi! Quick question: I’m considering painting a dresser I have that is very wide but relatively short… It has lots of drawers and I also don’t own a sander– just regular old sandpaper! Should I bother painting it or will it be so time consuming that it won’t be worth it?

    Reply
    • Kayleen Babel says

      November 25, 2012 at 3:55 am

      It’s about the size of your friend’s dresser in “A Friend’s Dresser Makeover” (the pink one!) haha thanks! 🙂

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 25, 2012 at 4:00 am

      Hello! Yes, you can paint it. I’ve hand sanded most of my furniture. You can use regular sandpaper or a sanding block (a few bucks at the hardware store). You don’t have to sand the finish all the way off, you just need to rough it up so the paint has something to grab onto. It doesn’t have to be perfect. Hope this helps! Good luck!

      Reply
    • Kayleen Babel says

      November 25, 2012 at 4:37 am

      Thanks so much! Do you know approx how long it will take/ how long it took you guys? sorry for so many questions!

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 25, 2012 at 12:53 pm

      It will take a few hours total but I usually spread out the work over several days to account for drying times, etc. So I’ll sand and prime one day, then sand and paint a coat, then sand and paint a second coat, then seal. So it might take me almost a week from start to finish if I break it up like that, working for maybe an hour each day. You want to lightly sand between coats and allow to dry completely between coats. If you work for several hours each day you could probably knock it out in a weekend.

      Reply
  30. El largo S.L. says

    November 30, 2012 at 7:10 pm

    Seeing the photos before and after the painting, the dresser has been done younger. Before,it was sad and with old aspect and later I see that it is nice and with bright colours. Did you look for this?

    Reply
  31. Ashanti Appassionata says

    December 1, 2012 at 10:00 pm

    Hello! I found this blog post through a Google search because I’d like to redo my bedroom furniture which I found at a second hand store. I think it’s beautiful and adds a lot of character to my room and it will be a dark brown color. I have two questions for you. First question – how do I sand those hard-to-reach places? There are a lot of grooves and indentations in my furniture and I’m not quite sure how to access them. Second question – is Murphy Oil Soap all I need to clean the furniture before I begin the sanding? Thank you in advance for your answers and thank you SO much for this post!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 2, 2012 at 1:47 am

      Thank you for stopping by! As for the hard to reach places, I usually use a small sheet of sandpaper and hand sand the crevices as best as I can. Don’t stress if you can’t get into every tiny crevice, and if it’s not perfect, that’s ok. The main thing is to just rough up enough of the surface to give your paint something to “grab” onto. And as for cleaning – yes, Murphy’s Oil Soap will do the trick. If the piece is already pretty clean and in good shape to begin with, then I usually skip this step altogether. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  32. Jasmine Rogers says

    December 1, 2012 at 10:31 pm

    Hi!
    Love this DYI article!!

    Would it be possible to add a shopping list of the items you used and the qty based on general dimensions, i.e.

    2 foam paint brushes
    1 xx type paint brush
    2 gallons of paint for approx 2×3 dresser, etc

    thx!
    jaz

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 2, 2012 at 1:50 am

      Hi Jasmine! Here is a link to this specific dresser where I mention each product (brand and color) that I used, etc.: http://diyonthecheap.blogspot.com/2012/03/refinished-dresser-reveal.html. If you still have questions or need more specific info, let me know and I’ll try to add it! Thank you!

      Reply
  33. Anonymous says

    December 5, 2012 at 5:12 pm

    You are right on! The secret is in the prep and lightly sanding between coats. I did a bed and dresser last summer. My first attempt and it was great. One thing I did…I use Sherwin Paint most of the time for everything because I like the store I go to. Anyway, it was recommended to use the “old” oil base paint that is “self-leveling”. It takes more time because of the drying time between coats, and ventilation, ventilation, ventilation. But, the results were amazing. The finish looked professionally done! I plan do do more odd pieces, but of course, not over do. One can only have so many painted pieces! Thank you.

    Reply
  34. Anonymous says

    December 11, 2012 at 2:30 pm

    Oh, now I am so sad. Following Home Depot instructions for painting bedroom furniture I bought flat paint and semi-gloss poly. I have already done 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of the flat paint (Gliddon’s White on White). Ugh. Would you use the wax on flat paint or should I use the poly? FYI It does need one more coat of paint.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 11, 2012 at 6:46 pm

      Ohhh DON’T use poly over white paint, it will turn it yellow! Definitely use the wax and then buff it with a soft cloth until it’s as shiny as you’d like it to be. Not sure why they told you that, hmm. Maybe it was a newbie who didn’t know what they were talking about! LOL. Anyway, use the wax and it should turn out fine. I’d love to see pics when you’re finished!

      Reply
    • Anonymous says

      December 11, 2012 at 7:26 pm

      Is Minwax Water Based Polycrylic Protective Finish the same thing as the polyurethane that will make it turn yellow? Because that is what I have however, either way, I think I will exchange it for the wax. THANK YOU and I will send you pictures:)

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 11, 2012 at 7:29 pm

      Oh, the Polycrylic is different and it is not supposed to yellow. I have some but I haven’t tried it over white yet. You should be ok, but I can’t speak from experience on that one. Please let me know what you end up choosing to do! Good luck either way!

      Reply
    • Anonymous says

      December 14, 2012 at 7:01 pm

      Uh oh, I decided to use the wax (Minwax Finishing Paste). I put it on with cheesecloth, waited 10-15 minutes and buffed it until my arm wanted to fall off. Now it looks a little dirty/yellow in some spots. Any suggestions?

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 17, 2012 at 1:43 am

      Sounds like it went on too thick in some spots. I would sand those spots and touch them up if possible. To apply the wax, put a small amount on the cheesecloth, then double it over and apply it through the second layer of cheesecloth. That will give you the perfect amount. It will look like nothing is going on there but if you look in certain lights/from certain angles, you’ll be able to tell it’s going on. It should be super thin. Good luck!

      Reply
  35. Misty Deppe says

    December 13, 2012 at 4:51 pm

    Hi Erin , I’m painting my daughters dresser. It’s a very light lavender and the paint is flat. I’m going to be painting it white,hot pink,and zebra stripes.Do I need to prime it even though the paint is flat ? I will also be using Krylon spray paint .Thanks 🙂

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 13, 2012 at 4:56 pm

      Hi Misty! Yes, I would definitely prime no matter what. Primer will help seal the surface and provide better adhesion. Good luck!

      Reply
  36. Bobs Furniture says

    December 25, 2012 at 11:06 am

    I love to see your before and after furniture pictures. The actual gift though is to envision it done when it looks its worst..and in that you are truly gifted!!

    Bobs Furniture

    Reply
  37. Muhammad Amjad says

    January 8, 2013 at 6:28 am

    Looks so pretty with black and white ,thanks for sharing all instruction….i like and love it.

    Hotel furniture

    Reply
  38. Anonymous says

    January 8, 2013 at 7:17 am

    This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    Reply
  39. Matthew Tudge says

    January 8, 2013 at 5:10 pm

    This is great. Thanks for sharing this beginners guide on painted furniture and how to paint it, I have found it really useful.

    Reply
  40. Donna Thomas says

    January 10, 2013 at 9:10 pm

    Thanks for this DIY step by step info. This will be my first time ever doing a project like this. I am painting a dresser I have had since child hood for my baby. He will be born this year!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 22, 2013 at 6:57 pm

      Thanks for stopping by! Congrats on the baby. I’d love to see photos when you finish your project!

      Reply
  41. Anonymous says

    January 11, 2013 at 5:18 am

    Thank you so much for writing this! It was very sweet of you to take the time to help out us beginners 🙂

    Reply
  42. Lin @ Home of Ours says

    January 18, 2013 at 9:33 am

    Great tips. I am about to embark on painting our nightstand and will certainly be following your procedures. Thanks for sharing!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 22, 2013 at 6:58 pm

      Thanks Lin. Good luck with your project!

      Reply
  43. Mindy Henry says

    January 22, 2013 at 3:38 pm

    Hi Erin –

    I am a new DIY-er so I don’t have a lot of experience with painting furniture. My daughter has a beautiful, old fashioned bedroom set with a headboard/footboard, nightstand, and dresser. The paint on it is flat with gold leaf trim. I wouldn’t repaint it except that it is a dingy grayish green (used to be white). I actually want to keep the original coloring on it but want it to look fresh as I am completely redecorating her bedroom. I have no idea what kind of paint is on this furniture. It could be lead-based (gasp!) for all I know. It was given to us by her grandma and was actually HER grandmother’s. Can I follow the normal steps of sand/prime/paint, etc. or do I need to do something else? Can I (or should I) take a paint chip somewhere to have it tested first? Thank you! I love your blog by the way! I hope that some of my projects turn out half as wonderful as yours!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 22, 2013 at 6:32 pm

      Hi Mindy! It’s very possible that your furniture does have lead paint, but the good news is it’s easy to find out. Most hardware stores (Home Depot, etc) sell lead paint test kits which allow you to find out for sure. You can ask them at the store or search their website for it. If it does in fact contain lead, you can either have an expert do the removal for you or you can very carefully do it yourself. (Here’s a helpful link: http://www.ehow.com/how_5163033_remove-lead-paint-furniture.html). Just be very careful as you can release the lead dust into the air. Now, if you find out that the furniture does NOT contain lead, then yes you can follow the usual process of sand/prime/paint. I’d love to see photos when you’re done! Hope this helps. Thanks for getting in touch!

      Reply
    • Mindy Henry says

      January 26, 2013 at 2:43 pm

      Ok, so much for that idea. When I approached my husband about painting the set, he said “no way”. They were his great grandma’s, they are antiques, etc. I think it’s more of a sentimental thing. So ok, he wont let me paint them. *sigh* Since I am not in the market to buy a new set in the color I want, do you have any suggestions? My daughter wants a hot pink and zebra room. The furniture is a dingy grayish color? I could probably cover the headboard/footboard with fabric and not inflict any damage on the wood but as for the rest of it… I am at a loss. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 27, 2013 at 11:45 pm

      Bummer! But I understand. What about adding some funky hardware/drawer pulls? This is something that can easily be changed back to the original later on. And yes, fabric on the headboard would be a good (and temporary) fix too. I’d love to hear what you end up doing! Good luck!

      Reply
  44. Steve says

    January 23, 2013 at 10:31 am

    This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    Reply
  45. Emily Smith says

    January 23, 2013 at 2:12 pm

    Hi Erin,
    I just bought a cheap double bed, made out of timber, and i have sanded it back with the intention of painting it white, but i really like the sanded/shabby look. What do you recommend i finish it with? I sanded down my desk as well and then painted on a satin finish, but it basically just reversed a hard days work, because it made it look all shiny again! I really like the way it looks now, so do i have to finish it with something? thankyou xx

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 23, 2013 at 2:39 pm

      Hi Emily! No, you do not have to put a topcoat on if you don’t want to. You can let it cure, but it takes about a month for paint to cure completely. This means leave it alone – don’t put things on top of it, etc, for about a month. Another option is to use furniture wax to protect the finish. You can buff it to your liking – the more you buff, the juniper it gets. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  46. Stacie Woodrum says

    January 29, 2013 at 7:28 pm

    I have a wood table that was painted white. I want to stain it now. I was using a sander but I’m afraid I am sanding too much. Do I need to completely remove the white paint? How do I go about removing it? Continue to sand it or do it another way? I am new to this & when I painted the table it was my first DIY project. Needless to say, I’ve come a long way & I don’t believe I will ever do that again! Ha

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 29, 2013 at 7:47 pm

      Hello! You will have to strip the paint off first. You can use a product like CitriStrip or Smart Strip. Here is my tutorial on that: http://diyonthecheap.blogspot.com/2012/08/how-to-strip-furniture.html. Then you can condition the wood and stain it. Hope this helps! Good luck!

      Reply
  47. dsnybst says

    January 30, 2013 at 10:27 pm

    Great site, I tried to read all the comments to determine if this was already discussed, so here goes, When sanding, did you “hand” sand, or did you use an electric sander with fine grit?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 30, 2013 at 10:42 pm

      Hello! I hand sanded but you can certainly use a sander. I would hand sand at the end to distress it though if you plan on doing that. You have much more control that way.

      Reply
  48. Vintage Finds says

    January 31, 2013 at 1:27 pm

    Erin have you tried chalk paint? There is no need to pre-sand. Makes life so much easier and the look far exceeds any other painting techniques.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 31, 2013 at 1:41 pm

      Hi! I haven’t tried it actually, although I do have a sample pot of it that I still haven’t used. I do love the idea of chalk paint and plan to try it sometime but I like the look of latex paint too plus it’s cheaper. Thanks!

      Reply
  49. tablet bilgisayar says

    February 11, 2013 at 10:09 pm

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    Teşekkürler erin..

    Reply
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  51. bebek odaları says

    February 13, 2013 at 2:08 pm

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    Reply
  52. alfred says

    February 16, 2013 at 11:57 pm

    If you plan on using your dresser highly, use quality hardwood that will be able to withstand the usual wear and tear and will not scratch easily. However, if you find that you will not be using the dresser often, you may opt to use wood options that are more affordable albeit a little less durable.

    Plans For Dresser Building

    Reply
  53. LENaile says

    February 27, 2013 at 8:32 pm

    I painted a dresser BM White Cloud color matched to Olympic no-VOC eco-friendly paint. Would you recommend just letting the paint cure if the painted furniture is going in a baby’s nursery? I notice that on my wax it says it has the harmful chemicals known for birth defects. I usually love to wax but want to be on the safe side!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 27, 2013 at 8:47 pm

      Hello! You could let it cure if you’re not going to be using it for at least a month. Just give it a good 30 days without touching it or putting anything on top of it. However, wax is ok too. There are chemicals in it so if you are pregnant, I would recommend having someone else apply it for you. But once it’s completely dry and aired out, it should be fine in the baby’s room. Another option which I just used for my sons’ headboards is Polycrylic. I used Minwax Polycrylic topcoat and I believe there’s also one called Safecoat Acrylac. It’s supposed to stay true to color and not yellow like polyurethane, and it is low-odor and water-based. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  54. Mark Henry says

    March 6, 2013 at 9:43 pm

    hımm.. very very nice. 🙂

    Reply
  55. clydewoman says

    March 8, 2013 at 5:59 pm

    I love that you painted the dresser white! I painted all my furniture white last year but sadly, I did not finish it with a polyurethane product. 🙁 also, I ran into trouble with the drawers not fitting because of the paint layers. :/

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 26, 2013 at 2:12 am

      Oh bummer! I usually don’t paint the sides of the drawers for that reason. Maybe you could sand them?

      Reply
  56. Oli Rusu says

    March 15, 2013 at 5:23 am

    Oh, mein. I really wish you were in Caribbean… and help me out on this. I just got a house, completely empty and of course, I’m officially broke. Inexpensive furniture and painted after sounds amazing! I’ll do my very best to follow your advices…

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 26, 2013 at 2:12 am

      Good luck! You can do it!

      Reply
  57. Ashley West says

    March 18, 2013 at 5:09 am

    Hi do you paint the back of the dresser?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 26, 2013 at 2:11 am

      Nope! I never do.

      Reply
  58. Patty Lunz says

    March 19, 2013 at 8:58 am

    I definitely agree with you–I try to keep beautiful wood (esp. if a piece was built pre-WWII) unpainted. My faves to paint are the mass-produced mahogany pieces from the post-war era. Only because there are so many out there, and they tend to be rather ugly. Love your cabinet!!) Do you mind if I link back to this post at some point?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 26, 2013 at 2:13 am

      A link back would be fine! Thank you!

      Reply
  59. That Shabby Guy says

    April 4, 2013 at 2:46 pm

    You can use polyurethane if you get the right product and apply it correctly. Polyurethane needs to dry in very thin coats. I could write a wall of text describing the process but I just wanted to chime in and let people know that it is very much so an option (the best in my opinion) even on white pieces.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 26, 2013 at 2:10 am

      Thanks so much for your input! I may have to give it a try sometime.

      Reply
  60. Tiffany from New Castle PA says

    April 20, 2013 at 8:56 pm

    Hello I love your dresser and I plan on copying it for my bedroom furniture. I was talking to my husband after reading your tutorial and he suggested instead of sanding using a round wire type brush that attaches to his drill. What do you think about that

    Thanks
    Tiffany

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 26, 2013 at 1:49 am

      I haven’t tried this. I would be careful of anything that will leave deep scratches on the surface as those will show up after you paint. If it is intended to sand, then it should be ok. Let me know if you end up using it! I’m interested in knowing how it goes.

      Reply
  61. Rebecca says

    April 21, 2013 at 6:50 am

    Hi Erin, thank you so much for this post! I was wondering if you could help me. If I was doing this on an extreme, extreme budget, what would you say are the most important things to buy/most important steps? Thank you!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 26, 2013 at 1:46 am

      Hi Rebecca! I would say sand and prime! You could skip the topcoat as long as you let it cure for a month without setting anything on top of it. Also, if you are on an extreme budget, check the “oops paint” section at the home improvement store. There is a section where they deeply discount paint that is returned or that they mix but don’t end up selling. I’ve found super cheap paint that way! Good luck.

      Reply
  62. Anonymous says

    April 27, 2013 at 12:35 pm

    Hi Erin! My name is Tomeka and I wanted to know if I could sand my table and chairs inside my apartment. I’m well aware that the staining has to take place in a well ventilated area but is sanding inside okay? I’m not sure if my fiance is trying to discourage me from doing this project, he keeps expressing to me that sanding inside isn’t an option because of the debris. I plan on hand sanding so should this eliminate some of the “kick up”? I really had my heart set on this project. Someone gave us the table and chairs but its a little drab and doesn’t flow with the rest of our furniture but with some TLC it’ll have life again AND compliment the rest of my furniture.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 28, 2013 at 12:10 am

      Hi Tomeka! If it helps any, I actually just painted two pieces of furniture that were too heavy to haul downstairs and outside so I did everything inside, including sanding. (I even used an orbital sander on some parts). My main advice is to use large drop cloths to cover the surrounding area, definitely wear a mask, and a shop vac will come in handy too if you have one. You are right about the staining though – this part needs to happen outside or in a very well-ventilated area. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  63. Anonymous says

    April 27, 2013 at 8:44 pm

    I love your dresser, I too have some old furniture I am looking at up-cycling. I have been reading and have found a paint that you dont need to do anything except paint on..Anne Sloan paint, has any one used this, its seems quite expensive, but perhaps the expense is worth not having to sand and prime????

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 28, 2013 at 12:12 am

      Hello! Yes I have heard of it and I even have a sample pot of it that I have not yet used. I know a lot of other bloggers who absolutely love this paint, and yes it does eliminate the need to sand and prime. This paint is awesome for the shabby chic look, although with sanding it afterwards you can achieve a more modern look as well. You do need to apply wax on top, but it’s a great paint. A little bit goes a long way, so although it is pricey it does last a long time. Let me know how you like it if you end up trying it!

      Reply
  64. Anonymous says

    April 28, 2013 at 12:53 am

    Hi Erin, I have a dresser that has a tan colored paint on it, and the paint is peeling in spots. You can pull it off with your fingers in the spots that are peeling. there is an orange color paint underneath. At one time I had painted this same dresser yellow, about 20 yrs ago. Then about 15 years ago, I had painted it orange. and 10 years ago I had painted the tan color. i do not recall what type of paints I used; oil based or latex???, I would like to paint it a creamy white color now, but am concerned about the tan paint that is peeling in spots. Is there a painless, inexpensive way to fix this problem and use the can of creamy white latex paint that I have on hand? Thank you. Lisa in Iowa

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 28, 2013 at 3:47 pm

      I wish I could say there is a completely painless way – but it will take some work. There are a couple of options. First, you could just try sanding it all off or at least until it sands smooth with a power sander (I use an orbital). Second, you could just strip it all off with a product like SmartStrip or CitriStrip and then scrape the paint off. Once you get the paint off or at least get it sanded smooth, be sure to prime it! Then you can apply your pretty white paint. Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

      Reply
  65. Brian says

    May 1, 2013 at 1:49 pm

    I just painted a dresser with black Valspar Eggshell paint and it is very tacky after sittin for 3 days. Will this sticky feeling go away? If not, should I sealit with something? I’d like to be able to put things on it and not have them stick to it.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 1, 2013 at 6:08 pm

      Hmm, it definitely shouldn’t be tacky by now. Did you paint it with thick coats? If so, it might just take longer to cure. It can take up to a month for paint to fully cure on its own but it should at least feel dry to the touch by now. I would give it several more days and see what happens. If not, you could try a polycrylic or polyurethane topcoat, but normally its best to add those after paint is no longer tacky to the touch. Also, thin coats of paint produce best results!

      Reply
    • Brian says

      May 1, 2013 at 8:09 pm

      I put 2 coats on. I guess they were thick, but I wouldn’t think that it would still be sticky. Do you know what might happen if I tried to use one of those topcoat products on top of sticky paint? Would I create an even bigger mess????

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 1, 2013 at 10:47 pm

      I would say it’s worth a try, because otherwise your best option is to sand or strip the paint off and try again, painting thin coats and letting them dry completely in between coats. If the topcoat messes it up, you’ll have to strip it off, which would be the case anyway. So I say go for it and hope for the best! There’s a decent chance it will fix the problem. I wouldn’t go for a wax though. I would do a polyurethane or polycrylic. Keep in mind you’ll also have to let the topcoat cure for a few days just to be on the safe side. Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

      Reply
  66. Brian says

    May 2, 2013 at 1:33 pm

    Thanks for the input!!! Have a great day. 🙂

    Reply
  67. Anonymous says

    May 6, 2013 at 4:10 pm

    Great post!You are super inspiring!
    I have a question about how much to sand a piece of furniture. I am doing an old dresser and was only hoping to rough up the old paint and thin it right down enough to apply a fresh new coat of paint ( So i could skip the priming and such) but upon sanding, the old paint is chipping in areas, now I feel that I have to sand the entire thing down to the wood, Is this completely necessary?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 6, 2013 at 5:45 pm

      Thank you! No, it isn’t necessary to sand down to the wood. As long as you can sand it smooth enough to where you can run your fingers across it and it feels smooth, you should be fine. (Right now you can probably feel the texture where it’s chipped, and you will see that if you apply paint.) Roughing it up a bit is fine, although I usually prime too just to help the new paint adhere better and last, as well as blocking stains. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  68. Jali says

    May 7, 2013 at 11:57 am

    Beautiful work, its amazing what you can do to make a piece of furniture really personalised. Customised furniture is very popular, as it gives your home a wonderful unique look.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 8, 2013 at 1:23 am

      Thank you!

      Reply
  69. Sanya Brown says

    May 10, 2013 at 8:45 am

    I have a question. I have a old dresser with a round mirror, it has been painted before so I just want to lightly sand to smooth and repaint. My question is how do I apply a differnt color paint to the crevises on the rounded corners and the carved round mirror frame? I am painting the dresser beige and want to highlight the indentions with a light brown. I like what you did with your dresser, look very nice.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 10, 2013 at 12:56 pm

      Hi Sanya. Thanks for stopping by! I would use a glaze for this. They sell Valspar tintable glaze at Lowe’s which I have used before. I tinted it with stain and kept it well-mixed, but you can also tint it with dark paint. You just wipe it on and then wipe it off, just like stain. It settles into the crevices and brings out the detail. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  70. Sanya Brown says

    May 11, 2013 at 3:30 am

    Thanks Erin, that sounds like a great idea, very helpfull. I will try that.

    Reply
  71. Vandana Vadhera says

    May 14, 2013 at 2:22 pm

    a silly question but Erin how do u avoid thumb n fingerprints from coming on the wood paint …and you should sand once paint is dry right???

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 26, 2013 at 1:44 am

      You have to let it cure completely or add a protective topcoat. If you are letting it cure on its own, then don’t touch it for about a month. (That’s how long it takes paint to cure.) Or you could add a topcoat like wax or polycrylic or polyurethane. Don’t sand the final coat of paint, but sand lightly between coats. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  72. Anonymous says

    May 14, 2013 at 3:36 pm

    Would like to know if I can put water base over an oil base primer,,Thanks

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 26, 2013 at 1:47 am

      Yes, it is my understanding that you can. Just not the other way around (oil-based paint over water-based primer).

      Reply
  73. 672ee6ee-bcad-11e2-bb78-000bcdcb471e says

    May 14, 2013 at 3:46 pm

    I have a black coffee table with an off white design on top. I want to paint the table a creamy white but I’d like to have the design remain and perhaps tint it a different color. how would I tackle this?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 26, 2013 at 1:49 am

      I’d have to see a pic to really envision what you are describing. To tint the design, you could always use a tintable glaze. I’ve used Valspar brand before. As for painting the white over the black – just use a really good primer first. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  74. Anonymous says

    May 22, 2013 at 9:40 pm

    Hello,
    I have a dresser and bed that I’ve already painted once for my daughter and I sanded didn’t prime but painted pink w silver glitter. Now I want to repaint it but I want it to have a gloss finish could you tell me what I would need to do? We are either painting it white or pink again with glitter. The reason we are redoing it is because pieces of it look bad. Would I need to sand it the paint was never waxed over or anything like that. And if we paint it white do we need to wait 30 days to wax it?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 26, 2013 at 1:52 am

      If you are just touching it up and repainting it with glitter again, then I wouldn’t bother sanding. If you want to get rid of the glitter, then I’d sand everything smooth, prime and paint. You don’t need to wait 30 days to add wax. The 30 days is just how long it takes the paint to cure on its own if you aren’t adding any sort of topcoat. I’d wait 24 hours then wax it, or polycrylic or polyurethane or whatever topcoat you choose. Good luck!

      Reply
  75. Paisley Notes says

    June 3, 2013 at 3:35 pm

    Amazing, one if the most helpful and informative posts ever! I cannot wait to paint my chest of drawers, yours looks so vintage, I love it!!

    If you like vintage check out my new blog: paisleynote.blogspot.com

    Reply
  76. Nowjoy Cherry says

    June 9, 2013 at 6:43 pm

    Hi great post! I have a question…. I bought this little dresser for cheap and it was black and thought i would repaint it, but i didn’t know about all the steps that you describe in this post so i just washed the surface areas and then painted it with an acrylic paint. Then when i was done i noticed that it peels very easily and then i found your post and realized i did it all wrong…. Is there any way i can fix it without starting over…like just sealing it or something? Please i need your advice!

    Thanks

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 9, 2013 at 8:23 pm

      Oh no! Unfortunately I don’t know of a way. I would either sand it all down or strip the finish off using a chemical paint remover like SmartStrip or Citri Strip. I’m sorry! Good luck!

      Reply
  77. Susan Smith says

    June 14, 2013 at 4:40 am

    Hi Erin! Thanks so much for the great info and step by step tutorial! I just finished painting a dresser using your steps above (sanded, primed, sanded, primed again, sanded again, painted white, sanded, painted white) and I now that it’s dry, I noticed that the texture looks a little spongy. I used a paint roller with a 1/4in nap (and was told by the Home Depot employee that it is meant for semi gloss to hi gloss finishes on cabinets/doors/furniture). Will the furniture wax or poly finish smooth it out? Or do I sand again and try a different roller? I can’t imagine another roller will eliminate the spongy look. Other than the texture, it looks great and I’m confident in the quality. Any advice is appreciated! Thank you!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 15, 2013 at 5:16 pm

      I would definitely wait until you are happy with your finish before you add a topcoat, as it will not minimize roller marks or brush strokes. Make sure that your roller is for “smooth surfaces” – you also might want to check out a product called Floetrol that helps eliminate roller marks/brush strokes. For now, I would sand again and try a smoother roller possibly with the Floetrol.

      Reply
  78. Anonymous says

    June 14, 2013 at 9:29 pm

    Hi There! Great post!
    Is there a certain finish (satin, matte, glossy, etc) or type of paint (brand,etc) that you recommend? When I can find the time, I am going to be repainting a coffee table as well as a buffet piece. Both are currently black so I know I will need to sand and prime first, but I get stuck trying to figure out which paint to buy.
    Thank you!!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 15, 2013 at 5:17 pm

      I recommend semi-gloss for furniture and I love Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore brands. (Just personal favorites.) Good luck!

      Reply
  79. Anonymous says

    June 15, 2013 at 2:52 pm

    Hi Erin. I didn’t realise that primer is so thick and looks ugly after paint. Will it look better after sanding? I am painting the drawer off silver to match my bed sides made in manufacture. How to achieve glossy finish? Manufacture ones look a like have laqued slightly.
    ThanK you.
    Eugenia

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 15, 2013 at 5:18 pm

      You will want to just apply a thin coat of primer before you paint. It should not be thick. If you want a glossy finish, you can buy a paint with a “gloss” finish and add a glossy poly topcoat. Hope this helps!

      Reply
    • Anonymous says

      June 23, 2013 at 10:25 am

      Hi Erin, thank you very much for your comments.
      I have done my drawer according to your advices but never had any previous experience in furniture painting at all! It turned up to my satisfaction(I cannot beleive it). However, there is always room for improvment for the future work like sanding, priming, spraying and etc. Now I’m at the stage of protection and considering to use polyurethane varnish spray. This is final stage and I dont want to spoil everything I ve done. Do you have spacial tip how to use spray, any bad experience so I would avoid. the drawer is silver colour,
      Thanks a lot.
      Eugenia

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 23, 2013 at 3:38 pm

      Hi Eugenia! I have never used polyurethane spray before, only the wipe-on. I would say to carefully follow the instructions on the can. Spray thin coats to avoid drips, and shorter sweeping motions are usually better than continuous spraying. Good luck! Please let me know how it works out!

      Reply
  80. sabrina says

    June 28, 2013 at 4:36 pm

    Thank you for the step by step and the tips!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 9, 2013 at 11:17 pm

      No problem! 🙂

      Reply
  81. Kelly says

    July 7, 2013 at 3:54 pm

    Just want to say thank you for keepng your step by step directions so user friendly to us (I mean me) that are a lttle intimidated when it comes to painting furniture.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 9, 2013 at 11:18 pm

      No problem Kelly! I’m glad the tutorial is helpful. No need to be intimidated – you can do it!

      Reply
  82. Myrna says

    July 9, 2013 at 7:15 pm

    What an impressive job and great instructions. I have a chair I’d like to repaint. The chair back has some carving. I am wondering if sanding is enough to get the paint off this area or do you recommend I try to remove the paint. I’ve never done anything like this before and I’m a bit afraid to get started!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 9, 2013 at 11:26 pm

      Thanks Myrna! Sanding should be plenty. If you are just re-painting I wouldn’t worry about stripping the previous paint off. Just sand as best as you can, prime and paint, applying thin coats and sanding between each coat. You’ll do fine!

      Reply
  83. Anonymous says

    July 12, 2013 at 11:17 pm

    I have not read all the entries in this blog, so I hope I’m not rehashing old topics. I have a small chest of drawers that looks like it was done last with a solid stain (brown). I want to paint it and stencil the front (will also replace the old wooden knobs with porcelain or ceramic. Of course, I’m interested in the base refinishing suggestions, but also some leads on the stenciling would be very helpful. Thanks in advance for your input.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 16, 2013 at 1:03 am

      As for painting the base: As long as you sand it enough to dull the finish and use a good primer, you should be fine to paint it following my tutorial. As for stenciling, I have used stencils from both Royal Design Studio and also Cutting Edge Stencils and I love the selection from both companies. Each of their websites have great tutorials for stenciling. I have stenciled a rug and found it easiest to stipple the paint on with their stencil brush, however on furniture I found it easiest to use a small roller and use rolled up painters tape on the under side of the stencil to hold it in place. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  84. Anna says

    July 15, 2013 at 2:30 am

    Hi Erin, I’m painting some bedroom furniture gray.

    I bought one of those paints that has primer in it. Do you think that will work without priming?

    Also, I like the hardware the piece originally had, but not the color of it. I bought some spray paint (yellow paint), but am not confident painting it will work since it’s metal hardware and will obviously be touched a lot. Is there a finish you would recommend?

    Finally, there is a lot of scroll work that is etched in the piece. I’m planning on painting that with a brush, but do you have any particular tips on keeping the appearance inside the scroll work smooth looking?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 16, 2013 at 1:06 am

      Hi Anna! The paint and primer in one would probably work ok, although I usually always apply a thin layer of plain primer first just to be sure no stains will peek through. I have used just the paint and primer in one on a previously painted piece and it worked fine.

      As for spray painting the hardware, you should be fine as long as you use a spray primer first. I have spray painted hardware before and it’s holding up fine so far!

      As for the scroll work, I would use a tiny artist’s brush to get in the nooks and crannies. This will allow you to have more control as well as use very little paint so it won’t form big globs or drips.

      Good luck! 🙂

      Reply
  85. Donna says

    July 16, 2013 at 5:39 pm

    I painted a dresser black with 2 coats of a latex based paint. I was told to put Minwax Polycrylic clear protective finish as a final coat to protect finish. First, do you agree with this suggestion? If yes, how long do I wait after painting furniture to apply the clear coat? Thanks for any advice you can give me.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 17, 2013 at 6:56 pm

      Hi Donna! Yes, you can use the Polycrylic. I really like that product actually. I would wait at least 24 hours after the final coat of paint before applying it.

      Reply
  86. Lauren says

    July 29, 2013 at 4:51 am

    Hello Erin!
    This article is very insightful. I haven’t started my project yet and have been researching. I am going to redo an entire bedroom set with a vanity in a two-toned fashion keeping the drawers their natural wood beauty and painting the sides and top off white. I have 2 quick questions: 1. Have you heard of or used Bulls Eye Shellac? If so can I just apply it to the wood after cleaning it? 2. I LOVE the handles that came with the set…however they have a bit of plastic on them that i’d prefer to paint white. How would I go about painting the plastic portion, or do you have a tutorial over that? Thank you!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      July 29, 2013 at 1:30 pm

      Hi Lauren! I love the two-toned look. I have never used Shellac, but from what I know it works well as a sealer but not necessarily a final topcoat and it doesn’t hold up well against heat or water. I typically use polyurethane or polycrylic as a topcoat on wood. But if you do end up trying the Shellac, please let me know your experience with it! I’m not familiar with the Bulls Eye Shellac. As for the handles, I would probably tape off the part that you don’t want painted, then use spray paint. They make formulas specifically for plastic. I would probably use a spray primer first and then the spray paint (or a 2 in one paint with primer). Good luck!

      Reply
      • Lauren says

        July 30, 2013 at 2:20 pm

        Thank you so much for the tips! I came across another question i’d like to ask. In your post you state that it’s pertinent to sand in between each coat. Does this include the very last coat? The guy at Home Depot assured me that I didn’t need to buy any top coat with the paint I was purchasing. If all else fail, however, i’ll be going back and buying a can of top coat just to be safe!So sorry for the plethora of questions. This is my first project!

        Reply
        • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

          July 30, 2013 at 3:35 pm

          No, no need to sand the last coat! Also, you don’t necessarily need a topcoat, but paint typically takes about 30 days to fully cure. If you choose to not use a topcoat, I would wait about a month before sitting things on top of the surface or touching it much, etc. I usually wax mine with finishing paste just for added protection.

          Reply
  87. Iulia says

    August 7, 2013 at 1:55 am

    Hello Erin,
    I have a question…I’m trying to paint some red old chairs white…I have sanded and applied primer ( killz ) but the red color bleeds through…should I do another coat of primer ?

    Thank you !

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      August 7, 2013 at 2:23 am

      Yes, I would lightly sand and add another coat. Sometimes it takes a couple coats of primer to cover up a dark color, especially if you are painting it white. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  88. Ilovejoy81 says

    August 9, 2013 at 2:00 am

    I followed these instructions to a T and I am very proud of my first furniture re-paint project. I found a side tab,e with drawers from The Salvation Army for 8 dollars and it turned out great.

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      August 9, 2013 at 2:05 am

      I’m so happy to hear this! So glad that you’re happy with how it turned out. I’d love to see photos! If you get a chance, feel free to email me or post them on my Facebook page. Thanks for letting me know that my tutorial helped you! 🙂

      Reply
  89. Debbie Chokran says

    August 26, 2013 at 5:00 pm

    Hi there. I am in the process of doing a dresser and I
    Love the hardware on yours. Where did you purchase
    The hardware ?
    Thanks.

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      August 26, 2013 at 5:22 pm

      Thanks Debbie! I actually used the original hardware that came with the dresser. You could check ebay for vintage hardware, or flea markets are great places to look too. For more modern hardware I love Hobby Lobby.

      Reply
  90. Terri says

    August 30, 2013 at 11:44 pm

    1. How did you paint the hardware on this dresser?

    2. I have some outdoor pieces of furniture that are old, made out of a very heavy metal. They have been painted multiple times over the years. What would you recommend? Can you strip paint off of old metal? Which paint do you recommend? And should it be sealed?

    Thank you for sharing your talent and knowledge.

    Blessings

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      September 1, 2013 at 9:09 pm

      Hi Terri! I actually didn’t paint the hardware on this piece. It is completely original and I just cleaned it up with soapy water.

      To answer your second question, yes you can strip paint off metal. There are a few ways that I have heard of, although I haven’t tried any of these myself. I have heard of putting them in a crockpot with warm soapy water and letting the heat do the trick, then peeling the paint off. Also, boiling them in baking soda and water – letting it simmer for half an hour. (You’ll have to dispose of the pot afterwards). Or, use a chemical stripping agent. Make sure if you use a chemical that you read the label and make sure it is ok for metal. As for painting the metal, I typically use spray paint. I use a spray primer first and I normally don’t seal it although you can spray it with a sealer when you’re done if you choose. Just make sure that the spray paint you use is formulated for metal or “all surfaces.”

      Reply
  91. Teresa says

    September 3, 2013 at 6:35 pm

    Hi, so glad to have found this site, I am going to paint my table and chairs that are now black to a bright white, was wondering if I can use a Rust-oleum clear lacquer as a sealer since poly urethane yellows on a white surface or just use the wax?

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      September 3, 2013 at 8:34 pm

      Hi Teresa! I have never used the clear lacquer over latex paint, so I can’t say if I recommend it or not, although it’s probably fine. Another option besides the wax is Minwax Polycrylic which is water based and I have used it before with good results. I love Rust-Oleum spray paint but have just never used it (or their topcoats) on furniture. I definitely recommend using something other than polyurethane on white paint, and water-based is typically best over latex.

      Reply
  92. Sue says

    September 7, 2013 at 8:29 am

    Hi Erin, Just wanted to say thanks. I am just starting out with this furniture reno caper. Have just started on our “oranged” pine coffee table. Painting the lower “cupboard” an off white and staining the top…a la french country shabby chic. (well in my head it is!!) Have found this post invaluable for a beginner. Cheers!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      September 8, 2013 at 12:11 am

      Thanks Sue! I’m so glad you found my tutorial helpful. I will say one thing to look out for when painting pine white is that sometimes knots can eventually bleed through. (This recently happened to me with a dresser.) If this ends up happening, you can seal the knots with varnish and then paint over them to keep them from bleeding through. Hopefully this won’t happen to you! Good luck with your coffee table! I’m sure it will be beautiful.

      Reply
  93. Tara says

    September 8, 2013 at 2:00 am

    Hi Erin,

    How long does this process take from start to finish (for let’s say a medium sized dresser, 2 end tables, and possibly a book shelf…)? I have a few pieces of furniture I would like to re-paint, but it sounds like this might mean we won’t have any bedroom furniture for a few days!
    Thanks, I’m excited for the project!
    I have some laminate furniture too if you have recommendations for re-painting that!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      September 8, 2013 at 2:44 am

      Hi Tara! It really depends on how much time you are willing to devote to it each day. If you plow through and work fast, you could finish in maybe 2-3 days. I usually give myself about a week because it can get tiring! I’ll sand one day, prime the next, lightly sand and paint a coat, then do the same thing the next day, and seal the last day. This way I’m only working maybe an hour or so per day. If you do it all in one day, you just need to allow proper drying times between coats, and I like to wait a full 24 hours between my final coat of paint and my topcoat/sealer. With all the pieces you are refinishing I would estimate realistically maybe at least 3 days unless you work your tail off from morning til night!

      As for the laminate, you can follow the same process, just be extra careful when sanding so that you don’t damage the surface. I would just lightly sand it enough to rough up the surface so paint will “grab” onto it. Be gentle.

      Good luck! I’d love to see before and after photos when you’re done!

      Reply
  94. masko says

    September 17, 2013 at 9:27 am

    Thank you so much for the tips! I came across another question i’d like to ask. In your post you state that it’s pertinent to sand in between each coat. Does this include the very last coat? The guy at Home Depot assured me that I didn’t need to buy any top coat with the paint I was purchasing. If all else fail, however, i’ll be going back and buying a can of top coat just to be safe!So sorry for the plethora of questions. This is my first project!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      September 17, 2013 at 11:36 am

      No, do not sand after the last coat. As for topcoat, it isn’t mandatory but if you do not use a topcoat, it typically takes paint 30 days to fully cure on its own. So I would wait about a month before putting stuff on top of it or handling it a lot. What type of paint did you use? I know there are some oil based paints that are very durable without a topcoat, but I’ve never personally used them. Good luck!

      Reply
  95. Dre says

    September 24, 2013 at 9:25 pm

    Hey lady, I’m so happy I found your site. I’m about to start my first project but just have a few questions before I start. I have a night stand that I have already sanded down. I’m planning on painting it a silver first then white over the silver but when I’m done distress some of the white so the silver comes through. If this turns out as planned I would like to do it to my book shelf as well.
    Do I follow the same steps even though I’m using 2 colors? If not, could you possibly give me a few pointers? How many layers for each color?
    Thank you so much for your help,

    Dre

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      September 25, 2013 at 12:05 am

      Hi Dre! I would still lightly sand between coats just to get a smooth finish. (Just very lightly to smooth it out.) You should be ok with one coat of silver, but if you want a more dramatic look then I’d go ahead with 2 coats. And I’d probably follow up with 2 coats of the white just to get good opaque coverage so you can’t see the silver through the parts that you don’t distress. Good luck! I’d love to see pictures when you’re finished! Feel free to email them or post them to my Facebook page!

      Reply
  96. Ms. Saima Sheikh says

    September 26, 2013 at 7:00 am

    hi i love the dresser makeover. can you please e-mail me: [email protected]. i have old drawers but they are not real wood. i want to fix them up so they look nice in my room. Thanks for your help!…..Ms. Saima Sheikh.

    Reply
  97. Kristina says

    September 30, 2013 at 12:08 pm

    Hi,

    I just got done painting a dressers white and bought some of the mid wax finishing paste, but when I got it home I noticed it is a “natural” color for light woods. Is this what you use, or is there a clear one too?

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      September 30, 2013 at 12:50 pm

      Hi Kristina! Yes, I use the natural (it ends up being clear). It only comes in Natural and Dark. I’ve used Natural over white paint and also over darker colored paints and I’ve been happy with the results. Just make sure that you apply it very sparingly! I always use cheese cloth and fold it over, applying it through a layer of the cloth. Then allow proper dry time and buff with a white cotton cloth.

      Reply
      • Kristina says

        September 30, 2013 at 10:27 pm

        Thanks a bunch!

        Reply
  98. Beth says

    October 1, 2013 at 5:06 pm

    Hey!! I finished painting and then sprayed a finish on my white pieces. Although the finish had polyurethane in it and now some of my pieces are yellow tinted. Is there any way to fix this without having to paint all over again?? Also my piece is scratching on top even after the finish was put on. It have been left alone for a week. Thanks!!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      October 1, 2013 at 8:10 pm

      Ok, unfortunately there really isn’t a way that I know of to fix the yellowed paint other than painting over it. (After sanding to dull the finish.) I never recommend using polyurethane over white paint for this reason. Your best bet is finishing wax or polycrylic. Also, when using polyurethane on painted furniture (which I sometimes do over darker paint or stain), I always apply 2-3 coats, allowing proper dry times in-between. Sometimes one coat just isn’t enough to protect it, especially if it’s a surface that is going to see a lot of wear and tear (like a dresser-top). Also, I’ve never used a spray polyurethane on furniture before. It could just be that the type of finish you used isn’t compatible with this particular project. I’m sorry! I know this is frustrating. I wish I knew of an easy fix for you!

      Reply
  99. Jamie says

    October 3, 2013 at 3:20 am

    Hi! I am in the process of using your instructions to repaint a highboy dresser and recently saw another variation of instructions that used liquid sandpaper. Have you ever used this and if so, what is your feedback on it? I am asking because I’ve been sanding my dresser for hours (still have yet to prime it) and it still feels smooth. It definitely is real wood but I believe it has some kind of veneer coating on it. Would love any insight you can provide. Thanks!!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      October 3, 2013 at 11:55 am

      Hi Jamie! I have never used the deglosser personally but I’ve heard that other people really like it. You don’t have to sand the piece a lot – just lightly to rough up the surface a bit. You could always try coarser sandpaper if what you’re using now doesn’t seem to be doing the trick. But the deglosser is certainly a good option also!

      Reply
  100. MommaB says

    October 12, 2013 at 10:12 pm

    Hello & thank you for the helpful instructions, Amazing! Quick question… Approximately how long does this take to do??

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      October 13, 2013 at 2:43 pm

      It really just depends. I usually spread it out over several days – this makes it easier for me since I have kids. So, I’ll sand one evening for an hour, prime for an hour the next day, sand and paint for an hour, repeat. With dry times in between, it’s very hard to get it done in a day. I have, however, finished a piece in a weekend before if I spend the majority of my time on it. You just need to allow 2-3 hours dry time between coats.

      Reply
  101. Melissa says

    October 15, 2013 at 11:30 pm

    Hi Erin! Your blog is great, it has been very helpful. I wanted to get your opinion on something. I am in the process of painting a nightstand in a light grey color and attempted to use polycrylic, as a recommendation from a friend, to seal it however it turned into a disaster. I had bubbles and streak marks covering the entire nightstand, ended up sanding it all off and throwing on another coat of paint. I have read some how to blogs on using polycrylic with better results but I am nervous to try it again. I am wondering if I should just switch to the wipe on epoxy but with that I am worried about the light grey yellowing. I have also considered the wax but have read in humid rooms it can become tacky over time, have you had any experience with this?

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      October 16, 2013 at 12:01 am

      Hi Melissa! I’m sorry to hear that you had issues with the Polycrylic. What type of paint did you use? The polycrylic is water-based so you have to use it over water-based paint, like latex. I’ve never had a problem with it personally. If you are nervous about using it again, I do recommend wax over painted furniture. I’ve used it many times and I’ve always been happy with the results. It’s held up well. Just be sure to put a very thin coat – if you apply it too thick then you may have problems. I always use cheese cloth to apply it, and fold the cheese cloth over and apply it through a layer of it. Then buff it with a clean white cloth. Another option is to just let the paint cure on it’s own for about a month, and then you won’t really need a topcoat. But I know it’s hard to leave a piece of furniture untouched for a whole month! Good luck with whatever you choose!

      Reply
  102. Jennifer says

    November 10, 2013 at 2:49 pm

    Erin,
    I just wanted to say thanks for giving such straight-forward easy to follow directions. I looked at many websites and just felt overwhelmed. I just refinished a set of end tables I inherited from my grandmother. I couldn’t stand the thought of getting rid of them, but they didn’t match anything in my house. I repainted them in heirloom white and I LOVE them!
    Thanks again!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      November 10, 2013 at 9:02 pm

      Thanks Jennifer! I’m so glad that my tutorial was helpful. That’s wonderful that you were able to hold onto your grandmother’s tables and make them your own!

      Reply
  103. Rita says

    November 14, 2013 at 6:15 am

    Hi Erin,

    I know I’m kind of late the party about this DIY, but great post! I’m not sure if I missed this part, but I was wandering how much the entire project and materials would cost? Thank you!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      November 14, 2013 at 9:44 pm

      Thanks Rita! It really depends on what type of paint you use and how much you need, how many pieces you are doing etc. I would estimate if you had to buy all materials and didn’t already have anything on-hand, and were just going to do a dresser of this size, it might run $40-50. You should have paint and primer left over too.

      Reply
  104. Wendy says

    November 19, 2013 at 3:48 pm

    FYI When you put grey words on a grey background it is hard to read.

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      November 19, 2013 at 3:52 pm

      Hmm, Wendy, I’m not sure I know what you are referring to — sorry. I’m not seeing any grey words on a grey background. Can you point out where you are seeing this? Maybe something did not fully load for you?

      Reply
  105. Jacque T says

    November 26, 2013 at 12:38 pm

    Hey Erin, I’ve been reading through all the comments in hopes to find my answer, so far I haven’t found it but love all the advice and the fact you take time to reply to a thread for this long too. 🙂 I have bedroom furniture I plan to redo, but I like the old weathered look. How do I achieve that? And is it glaze that I would add to get that “stained”or “dirty” look? Thanks. -JT

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      November 26, 2013 at 1:55 pm

      Hi Jacque! You can use glaze or dark wax to get that look, and you can use sandpaper to age/distress the wood. I would distress it in areas that would naturally age over time, like edges and corners. I have also used stain mixed with glaze. Here’s a good glazing tutorial that I have used: http://www.sweetpickinsfurniture.com/2011/01/how-i-glaze-furniture.html. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  106. Andrea says

    December 6, 2013 at 7:27 pm

    I am wanting to re-paint a children’s table and chairs cream. It is currently purple and pink. I need it to be complete in 1 week. Can you tell me what items I will need for my ”to-get list”? Do I have to strip the current paint on it, or can I just sand, prime, and paint?

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      December 7, 2013 at 12:25 am

      No need to strip the paint off. Just sand, prime and paint. (And sand lightly between coats too!). I would get sandpaper/sander, a good primer, paint (I like semi-gloss for furniture), tack cloth is helpful to get the dust off after sanding, a paint brush and roller. I recommend waxing or Polycrylic as a topcoat. (Polyurethane can turn light colors yellow over time.) Hope this is helpful!

      Reply
  107. Renee D. says

    February 9, 2014 at 7:11 pm

    Emergency question….my husband and I are refinishing some awesome old chairs that were painted. We have done all of your steps such as sanding, priming and painting. Here’s the issue. My chairs look great but the ones my husband did have many paint drip areas. I’m trying to “spot” sand in the areas where there were drip marks. The issue is when I do that, the sand paper leaves scratch marks around the area I sanded. Is there anyway to get the scratchy marks off without resanding the whole chair?

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      February 9, 2014 at 7:35 pm

      Yikes! Yes, I’ve had this issue myself. Make sure you are using “fine” or “very fine” sandpaper. Anything coarser than that will leave scratches. If you’ve already gotten scratches on it, go over that area again with the fine sandpaper. The paint should camouflage it once you add another layer or two where it needs to be touched up. Sand gently and lightly until the drips are gone! Good luck!

      Reply
  108. RoyalTeak says

    March 12, 2014 at 10:05 am

    Very nicely done. Reminds me of the furniture that I need to go paint and get restored!

    Reply
  109. Painting Tips says

    April 2, 2014 at 7:49 pm

    Great post! Been reading a lot about different tips for painting furniture like this. Thanks for the info!

    Reply
  110. Irene says

    April 10, 2014 at 1:42 pm

    Hi,

    I have a dresser that has knicks and paint chips. Would I need to sand it completely so that the paint adheres correctly?

    Thanks!
    Irene

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      April 11, 2014 at 7:30 pm

      Hi Irene! I would sand it to achieve a smooth finish, but if the knicks are deep then use wood filler to patch over them and then sand that smooth. The paint will adhere with a light sanding and priming. Good luck!

      Reply
  111. Jen says

    April 27, 2014 at 1:18 pm

    Hi there! I’m hoping you can help… I painted a dresser for my daughters nursery and my husband coated it with polyurethane instead of pokycrylic and now it is very yellow. The dresser was a challenge to begin with because it is veneer- so I’m wondering how I can get the oil based polyurethane off so I can repaint without damaging the dresser itself since it can’t be sanded like wood. Can you help point me in the right direction? Thanks!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      April 28, 2014 at 8:45 am

      Yikes! So sorry this happened. I know that veneer or laminate furniture can definitely be a challenge. You can sand it lightly, you just have to be very, very careful. I would be nervous about using chemical stripping agents, but you might be able to at least use a liquid deglosser just to dull the finish enough for paint to adhere again. You don’t have to remove the paint/poly completely, you just want to rough it up enough that a new coat of paint will adhere to the surface. Another option is chalk paint (not to be confused with chalkboard paint), which needs absolutely no prep beforehand and can adhere to virtually any surface. You just seal it with a wax after you’re done. Good luck!

      Reply
      • Jen says

        April 29, 2014 at 2:09 pm

        Thank you so much!

        Reply
  112. Meg says

    May 4, 2014 at 12:53 pm

    Hi there, I really tried to read all of the comments so I apologize if I am asking a question already asked. What did you use to apply primer? Roller, brush? Also do I sand my laser coat of white before applying a wax or polycrylic? Thanks so much! Wonderful tutorial and gorgeous furniture!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      May 5, 2014 at 9:30 am

      Hi Meg! I used a brush to get into the nooks and crannies and then a foam roller for the rest. No need to sand your last coat of paint before your topcoat. Good luck!

      Reply
  113. Meg says

    May 4, 2014 at 12:54 pm

    Last coat*

    Reply
  114. Jennie Osental says

    May 8, 2014 at 6:17 pm

    Thank you so much for this tutorial. I’m currently repainting a dresser that was given to us and this has really helped ALOT! Alot of other tutorials or alot of youtube videos don’t really give you much detail on how to do this so it was alot confusing..
    I did have a question though.. I know you sand after every coat of paint but does that also mean you sand the very last coat before sealing? I had just finished sanding after priming and I can’t wait for the results!
    Thank you so much for your help!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      May 8, 2014 at 6:41 pm

      Hi Jennie! No need to sand after your last coat of paint. And I’ve found that normally one coat of primer is enough.

      Reply
  115. Jennie Osental says

    May 8, 2014 at 6:38 pm

    How many coats of primer is usually needed?

    Reply
  116. Dreamly says

    May 18, 2014 at 9:01 pm

    This is a really great how to guide. You could pretty much do this with any piece of furniture that you have. Thanks for the wonderful tips.

    Reply
  117. Melissa says

    June 1, 2014 at 10:19 am

    What do you know about Rust-Oleum Latex Paint? Apparently, it is specifically for furniture and can be applied to metal, wood, plaster, etc. I wasn’t sure how this compared to traditional interior latex paint as you said you used.

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      June 1, 2014 at 7:27 pm

      Hi Melissa! I’ve never used Rust-Oleum latex paint, although I’ve always been happy with their spray paint and wood stain. I do have a quart of their chalkboard paint I’m planning on using at some point, but haven’t tried it yet. If you do end up trying it, please let me know how you like it! I’d love to hear about it.

      Reply
  118. Angela says

    June 8, 2014 at 10:16 pm

    Erin! Thank you SO much for this tutorial! It was perfect and so helpful. I just painted my first piece of furniture…a small dresser for my baby boy! I love how it turned out. I used all your recommendations and it went so well. Thank you again!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      June 12, 2014 at 8:52 pm

      I’m so happy to hear that! Thanks for letting me know. I’m so glad that you love the results!

      Reply
  119. Kim says

    June 13, 2014 at 5:38 pm

    Hi, quick question…

    Can I skip the primer step if my paint contains primer in it?

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      June 14, 2014 at 4:38 pm

      Hi Kim! Technically, you probably can. I normally don’t use paint and primer in one on furniture just because I can get a smoother finish with really thin coats of regular primer followed by paint, but you’re probably fine. Just be sure to apply it very thinly.

      Reply
  120. Andy says

    July 21, 2014 at 4:11 pm

    Hi,
    Nice work. I’m new to this as well, well at least new to trying to do it right. I’ve run into drawers sticking after painting. Does the furniture wax help with that? Or was I using the wrong paint or too much etc.
    Thanks,
    Andy

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      July 21, 2014 at 4:21 pm

      Hi Andy! Yes, the wax will help with that as long as you let it dry completely before closing any drawers. If you weren’t using a topcoat when you ran into the sticking drawer problem, you probably closed the drawers before the paint fully cured. (It takes about a month for paint to fully cure on its own with no protective topcoat). If you close a drawer before that, it will stick. Good luck!

      Reply
  121. AnnMarie says

    August 6, 2014 at 9:19 pm

    I want to redo my bedroom set. Thanks for the instructions on how to strip it but my dresser has the top oiece that looks like wood but is sold in and is glued down? I dont know what its called but im not aure how to prep that. Thanks

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      August 7, 2014 at 10:14 am

      Hi AnnMarie! If you are simply painting the dresser, I would just give it a VERY light sanding so the paint will adhere. Be very careful as you do not want to sand the laminate off. If you are staining, you won’t be able to stain laminate/veneer, only the real wood will take the stain. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  122. ctit.ae says

    August 22, 2014 at 11:48 pm

    This article provides clear idea in favor of the new people of blogging, that actually
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    Reply
  123. RSI says

    August 27, 2014 at 4:51 pm

    Erin,

    I love the tutorial and how informative you are. You also have great taste. I have two questions:
    1) Can we use the steps you outlined for any furniture finish and material? We have a West Elm entertainment shelving set that is dark brown and I want to paint it white. The paint finish is a bit glossy and it looks like it isn’t solid wood but rather a very nice wood composite.
    2) We have a beautiful solid pine table that we bought in England. It is unpainted/unfinished, and we have enjoyed it but now I think I want to at least stain in both for protection and to give it a more finished, modern look. Do you have recommendations on what to do and if I have to follow the steps you outlined above?
    Thank you, RSI

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      August 27, 2014 at 7:15 pm

      Hello! Yes, you can use this tutorial for pretty much any material. If you are working with laminate or veneer, just be very careful sanding as you don’t want to sand the veneer off. Just very lightly rough it up so the paint has something to adhere to. As for your pine table, here is a tutorial for staining that you might find helpful: http://diyonthecheap.com/how-to-stain-furniture-the-basics/ If you opt to paint it instead, I highly recommend using wood filler on top of all of the knots as they will eventually bleed through, particularly if you use a light color paint. Use a good primer (maybe even two coats) too! Good luck!

      Reply
  124. Jon says

    November 5, 2014 at 6:16 am

    Nice little guide. i think the hardest part is finding the right kind of paint with the right color!

    Reply
  125. usahasampingan10 says

    November 21, 2014 at 9:25 am

    thank you for sharing, i like to read this

    Reply
  126. Fuggin' Duh Bytch says

    January 10, 2015 at 1:55 am

    You don’t put any type of sealer over paint. That is begging for failure. Use an enamel if you want a hard finish.

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      January 10, 2015 at 4:56 am

      Hmm nope, I’ve done this countless times with great results. All furniture pieces are holding up great. Thanks for your two cents worth though!

      Reply
  127. Fina says

    March 14, 2015 at 2:19 am

    Let me say… You are a Saint!
    Thank you for sharing your paint wisdom!
    Question regarding sanding… which products (primer, paint, & poly)are safe to sand? I know that anything with Silica is not safe and shouldn’t be sanded.

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      March 14, 2015 at 2:56 pm

      Hi Fina! Anything containing VOCs, additives or silica can pose a risk and it is definitely recommended that you wear a respirator if you are sanding anything containing these and do so in a well-ventilated area. Definitely don’t sand anything with mercury or lead (so anything painted during the 1970s or prior, I would do a lead test and have it professionally refinished if you find that it contains these heavy metals.) These days there are many safe paints on the markets such as low or no-VOC options which are safest, so I would look into those. But a respirator will provide great protection. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  128. Hannah says

    April 22, 2015 at 9:11 am

    Can’t wait to try this, sounds easy enough for me!

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      April 22, 2015 at 4:53 pm

      Thank you Hannah! You can definitely do it. 🙂

      Reply
  129. Lynn says

    May 5, 2015 at 10:05 am

    Hi, I am ready to begin painting an old piece of furniture but it has intricate details. How do I go about finishing, stripping, painting, etc. those details without destroying them? Thanks.

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      May 7, 2015 at 10:29 pm

      Hi Lynn! If you are painting as opposed to staining, I wouldn’t stress too much about stripping or sanding the intricate parts. You can try to lightly hand sand it a tiny bit with a sheet of sandpaper, but it really isn’t necessary unless the finish is super glossy. You just want the paint to be able to adhere to the surface. I usually use a small artist’s brush to get into the tiny nooks and crannies with primer and paint. You definitely don’t want to over-sand as that can easily mess up the details. Good luck!

      Reply
      • Lynn says

        May 8, 2015 at 7:13 am

        Thanks Erin!

        Reply
  130. Katie says

    June 4, 2015 at 1:46 pm

    When you are sanding between coats, what should that look like? Obviously you don’t want to take all of the colour off, but what is the result I should be trying to achieve after sanding between paint coats?
    Also- I am going to do a dresser white from a natural wood colour. Would you recommend more than one coat of primer?
    Thanks!
    Katie

    Reply
    • Erin @ DIY on the Cheap says

      June 5, 2015 at 8:24 pm

      Hi Katie! You just want to rough it up a tiny bit so the other coats will have a surface to “grab” onto. It will also create a smoother finish. Just a very quick rub with a sanding block will do the trick, you don’t have to spend much time or use much elbow grease. As for primer, usually one coat is enough, but if you find that your wood is really porous and is soaking it up quite a bit, then I’d go for a second coat. Also, if your wood has a lot of knots, use wood filler to patch over those or they will bleed through. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  131. Ashley says

    June 29, 2015 at 3:36 pm

    Hello! Great job on the furniture! I’m in the process of doing my desk. I had a question. I hope it is not too silly. When I went to buy the finishing wax because I painted mine white it was only available in natural. Wouldn’t the light brown sealer ruin the white paint that I just put on?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 29, 2015 at 9:11 pm

      Hi Ashley! Your question isn’t silly. “Natural” is the one you want! It looks brown in the can but it goes on clear.

      Reply
      • Ashley says

        June 29, 2015 at 9:18 pm

        Thank you so much! I was too scared to try it and ruin my work. Thank you again!!

        Reply
        • Erin Spain says

          June 29, 2015 at 9:26 pm

          No problem! Just be careful not to put it on too thick. You should barely be able to see it go on. Apply it through a couple of layers of cheesecloth for best results, and buff with a clean white cloth. Good luck!

          Reply
          • candy says

            August 23, 2015 at 4:23 pm

            I am about to repaint two dressers. one looks almost exactly like this one, but it has intricate carvings in it, and I want to remove/fill them in to make the piece less dated. any suggestions? I was thinking about sanding it and then using wood putty. (then begin the full sanding and painting process) would that work?

          • Erin Spain says

            August 25, 2015 at 9:23 pm

            Wood filler and sanding should do the trick. Use a good primer as the wood filler may absorb the paint and cause flashing (a duller appearance in that spot whereas the rest might look more glossy), but a coat or two of primer should prevent that. Good luck!

  132. Chevelle Turner says

    September 5, 2015 at 9:45 am

    Would you use this same method on metal. I am painting a file cabinet and was thinking of using the chalk paint but it is very expensive. Would the interior latex paint work on it?
    Thanks,
    Chevelle

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 6, 2015 at 8:17 pm

      Hi Chevelle! No, I would not use this method for metal. The best paint for metal is spray paint, and I always use a spray primer first. Be sure to get the kind that specifies that it is for use on metal. You can use chalk paint, and I do know people who have used it on metal with good results, but I’ve never tried it myself. Good luck!

      Reply
  133. Vin says

    January 15, 2016 at 5:36 pm

    I followed your instructions exactly. Taking the time to prep sand, prime, sand, and prime again. I gave it another sanding before applying the paint and sanded in between each coat (3). I used a foam roller to apply the paint. But, after it dried, I noticed that the surface was rough. The foam roller left dimples. I thought that a roller would leave a smoother surface unlike a brush that could leave brush marks. When I apply the paste wax sealer, will the surface then become smooth, or did I do something wrong somewhere along the way? Any thoughts or suggestions?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 15, 2016 at 8:33 pm

      Hi Vin! I’m sorry you’re having issues with your paint finish. The wax sealer will not smooth the finish, you definitely want it to be as smooth as you want it before you apply any sort of topcoat. A few things might be the culprit here. First off, I’ve noticed that if I am applying a high gloss finish, the roller marks/rough surface is much more prominent. Another thing that could be happening is that if you aren’t loading up your roller enough before painting (roll it many times to load it up and get started), then you could be removing some of the paint as you roll which will create a texture that you described. Work in small sections and reload your roller frequently — even more frequently than you may think is necessary. If you’re using a gloss finish I almost always recommend using a paint sprayer to get a really flawless finish. And if you are not using gloss but are still running into issues, you could use a sprayer anyway OR try a low nap roller instead of foam, and apply another coat or two until it all evens out. Another option would be to add a product like Floetrol to your paint which levels it and eliminates brush strokes or roller marks. Good luck to you!

      Reply
  134. Penny key says

    January 17, 2016 at 12:53 pm

    This really has help me

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 19, 2016 at 8:47 pm

      Hi Penny! Glad I could help!

      Reply
  135. Linda says

    March 18, 2016 at 7:17 pm

    How do you prepare fiber board to paint? I have a small cabinet that the paint has come off of and the particle board is kind of swollen. I can’t find another piece to replace it so would like to paint it. Can’t find anything on how to do this.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      March 18, 2016 at 8:29 pm

      Hi Linda! You can use this same method, just be very careful when sanding and just do it lightly to rough up the surface enough for paint to adhere to. If the particle board is swollen, I don’t know of a way to repair that other than to just replace it, but paint might help camouflage it some or at least improve the piece for now. Good luck!

      Reply
  136. Asante says

    April 13, 2016 at 3:02 am

    Hi, new to painting stumbled across your article. I probably didn’t read this properly altogether, but so you don’t recommend polyurethane for white or lighter colors. What are the alternatives and do you have any brand suggestions?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 13, 2016 at 9:25 pm

      I love Minwax Polycrylic and also Minwax Finishing Wax Paste. Those are my personal favorite topcoats. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  137. Kelsie says

    May 27, 2016 at 9:55 am

    Followed all the steps, cleaned, sanded, tack cloth, primer, but when I went to sand down the primer (after allowing it to sit over night) the sand paper took off stripes of the primer… Not sure what my next step should be….has this ever happened to you? Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 27, 2016 at 10:11 am

      Hmm, did you sand before priming? And are you just using very fine sandpaper on the primed surface? Maybe your sandpaper is too coarse. I would touch up the areas that were sanded off and then very gently smooth it with fine sandpaper when it dries, then paint.

      Reply
  138. Caleb Thompson says

    July 4, 2016 at 9:26 pm

    Hi Erin I have furniture that has a lot of very fine detailed cuts and edges that is very hard to sand, even by hand. How would you approach this. My thought was to skip the sanding in these areas and just prime and paint. Any advice?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 5, 2016 at 10:05 pm

      Hi Caleb! Yes, I would probably just prime and paint. Sometimes it’s just too hard to sand certain types of detailing. Good luck!

      Reply
  139. Megan Hoffman says

    July 12, 2016 at 9:57 pm

    Will this work if I have wood furniture that’s already painted? The wood is finished and then there are painted (and finished) wood drawers. I just want to paint the drawers a different color. They are black. Should I do several layers of primer if I want to cover the black better?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 12, 2016 at 9:58 pm

      Hi Megan! Yes, it will work. I would sand them enough to rough up the surface and then prime. It might take a couple of coats. You could probably get away with one coat of primer if you’re painting them a dark color. Probably two coats otherwise.

      Reply
  140. Paula says

    July 25, 2016 at 12:02 am

    I am going to try these steps on a dresser I will be painting white. You talk about sanding between each coat of paint. How long do you normally need to let a layer of paint dry before sanding? Thank you!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 26, 2016 at 9:18 pm

      I normally just follow the dry time directions on the can. Generally a few hours. I do let the final coat dry for 24 hours before applying a final topcoat/sealer. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  141. Jae says

    July 29, 2016 at 10:44 am

    Thank you for creating this blog. I have had a beat up antique dresser in my garage for a while and now I am cleaning the garage out. I watched flea market flip today and got inspired. Your piece was the information that I needed to get started

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 1, 2016 at 8:42 pm

      I’m so glad that you found my post helpful! I’d love to see a before and after pic when you finish! Good luck.

      Reply
  142. Chris Ebanez says

    July 30, 2016 at 5:56 am

    I’m painting a slightly used desk from black to white. The hardware on the 3 drawers are a dull gold & that I’d like to give them a color that”ll make them “Pop”. My color theme is turquoise & white. I like the color silver. What type of paint would you recommend for the hardware? or any other ideas? Appreciate it!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 1, 2016 at 8:43 pm

      I would use spray paint. I really like Rust-Oleum, personally, but any kind would be fine. Spray them with primer first, and then spray paint. Multiple light coats are better than one thick coat. It will look much smoother. Just make sure you buy the appropriate formula of spray paint for the material. (Ie Wood vs metal vs plastic, etc.) It should specify on the can. Good luck!

      Reply
  143. Jenny says

    August 28, 2016 at 7:51 am

    Hi! If you use the polycrylic or finishing wax, is the application process still the same of the product you first mentioned?

    Reply
  144. Jenny says

    August 28, 2016 at 8:29 am

    Also, do you just do one coat of the wipe on poly? I’ve seen some sites that say 2-3. What do you think is best?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 28, 2016 at 2:56 pm

      Hi Jenny! The application process for wax is different than polycrylic. You apply wax with cheesecloth and then buff with a white cotton cloth. For polycrylic, I usually apply it with a brush, and I do recommend at least 2 coats. If it’s a tabletop or a surface that will see a lot of wear and tear, I usually do 3 coats. Just follow the directions on the can as far as application and dry times. The painting process is the same either way though, before you reach the “Protect” stage of the project. Good luck!

      Reply
  145. laura says

    September 30, 2016 at 6:11 pm

    do you sand between your final coat of paint and your poly protection coat?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 2, 2016 at 4:52 pm

      No, I don’t.

      Reply
  146. Laurie says

    October 2, 2016 at 7:04 am

    I painted over a piece using latex paint. I didn’t realize the previous owner had used chalk paint and rubbed it with wax. the color that i put on is now peeling. what can I do? HELP it’s a huge piece!!!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 2, 2016 at 4:52 pm

      Oh no! I’m so sorry! Unfortunately the paint probably won’t adhere to the wax, so if it wasn’t thoroughly removed you might have to start over. I know that is such a bummer. Is it peeling all over? Or just in certain areas? If it’s just in a few spots you could try to sand those smooth and touch them up with paint, but if it appears to be a larger problem then you will have to strip off the paint and the wax underneath and paint it again. Good luck!

      Reply
  147. Allison says

    October 15, 2016 at 8:21 pm

    Hi there!
    I’m about to jump into my first furniture painting project. Do you normally work on the furniture outside or inside? I’d like to work under my patio outside since I know the sanding will make a mess, however, I’m worried about the moisture and humidity that could affect the furniture.
    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 16, 2016 at 8:04 pm

      Hello! I usually paint in my garage, but I’ve done it inside too. As long as it isn’t going to rain, you should be fine unless you live in an area with really high humidity in general. In that case, I would consider sanding outside and then moving it inside to paint. Good luck!

      Reply
  148. Julie says

    November 3, 2016 at 3:42 pm

    Hi! Thank you for the step-by-step instructions! This is the first piece of furniture I’ve painted and it has turned out wonderfully! Definitely better than I expected to do. I am all finished painting and ready to apply the polyurethane but I’m not sure if I should sand the last paint job before applying or just put the protective layer right on it? I’d hate to ruin the final look of it. Thank you, again!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 3, 2016 at 8:38 pm

      Hi Julie! No, don’t sand the last coat of paint. Just add the poly! Good luck!

      Reply
      • Julie says

        November 4, 2016 at 3:05 pm

        Thank you!

        Reply
  149. Patty says

    December 6, 2016 at 2:02 am

    Hello Erin! Beautiful work!! So I just bought a China hutch from someone who says it’s solid wood (I have no idea i am no pro) i had this other lady say that it looks like solid wood topped off with veneer. Not sure what that means??! My question is can I paint such piece and what are the steps to go about it? How do I prep? Doesn’t sound like I can sand or should sand veneer? & what do I finish it off with?? Hoping you could help this confused beginner who just wants to fill up her home with prettys painted by her own hands!! Plus buying already nice painted furniture is a lot more expensive ????
    Thank you in advance! -patty-

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 6, 2016 at 10:44 am

      Hi Patty! It’s very possible that it is solid wood with a real wood veneer, and you can use the same process to paint that as any other wood piece of furniture. The only thing is you will want to take extra care when sanding, because you don’t want to sand the veneer all the way off. Lightly sanding just enough to rough up the surface is the way to go. No need to heavily sand anyway if you are just painting, even if it isn’t veneer. You just want to give the paint a rough enough surface to have something to “grab” onto — nothing too shiny or glossy. Hope that makes sense! Just err on the side of lightly sanding and you should be fine.

      Reply
  150. Aimee says

    December 17, 2016 at 8:56 am

    What type of sealant should i use on white funiture? Also, i love the semi gloss look but also was the furniture to have that dark countouring in the crevices without using chalk paint. What do you recommend?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 17, 2016 at 9:38 pm

      Hi Aimee! I usually use Minwax Finishing Paste Wax in Natural as a topcoat on white furniture, although Polycrylic is also an option. I steer clear of polyurethane due to its tendency to yellow over time. You can use semi-gloss paint and distress the edges, although if you aren’t painting over a dark piece of furniture you might considering staining the edges darker first so that is what will peek through. After painting, you can just take a sanding block and distress the edges and areas that would naturally distress over time. Chalk paint is super easy to distress but you can do it with any paint. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  151. Joelle says

    January 11, 2017 at 11:59 am

    Can I follow these steps and directions to paint a stained dresser?

    -Joelle

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 11, 2017 at 8:17 pm

      Hi Joelle! Yes, you can use this tutorial for stained furniture. You will just want to sand enough of the topcoat to rough it up a bit so it isn’t too glossy, so the primer has something to “grab” onto. If you are painting over mahogany stain, you’ll want to use a shellac-based primer to prevent bleed through. Good luck!

      Reply
  152. Courtney says

    January 19, 2017 at 1:06 pm

    Hi! I love your pieces and this was a great tutorial! I am wondering, how do you sand in the deep grooves and tiny spaces? Just try your best? I am thinking of refinishing my oak bedroom set to a distressed cream. Hopefully all goes well 🙂

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 20, 2017 at 2:11 pm

      Hi Courtney! I don’t bother with the tiny crevices. You don’t have to go overboard with the sanding anyway, especially if you’re just painting. The goal is just to rough up the surface enough for your paint to have something to “grab onto” if that makes sense. You want to rough up the glossy finish so the paint doesn’t slide off. Just try your best and I’m sure it will look great!

      Reply
  153. Tonya Royer says

    February 1, 2017 at 12:38 pm

    I appreciate your helpful instructions, I’m going to be trying this very soon, thank you

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 2, 2017 at 10:03 pm

      Thanks, Tonya, and good luck!

      Reply
  154. Heather says

    February 20, 2017 at 10:16 am

    Thank you! This is so helpful and your work is beautiful!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 24, 2017 at 10:47 am

      Thank you, Heather!

      Reply
  155. Melissa says

    March 3, 2017 at 1:55 pm

    Hi Erin, this has been a wonderful tutorial. Thank you! Question: what do you use to wipe on the poly? Do you use cheesecloth for that as well?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      March 3, 2017 at 8:04 pm

      Hi Melissa! I use a plain white cotton cloth. An old white tshirt will even do.

      Reply
  156. Stefanie says

    April 10, 2017 at 3:09 am

    So, how do you paint not real wood objects? I have something I want to paint, but scared, because it is not real wood.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 11, 2017 at 1:35 pm

      Hi Stefanie! It depends on what it is you are painting. If it’s laminate, you can paint it the same way. Just be careful when sanding, and do it very lightly, as you don’t want to sand off any veneer or damage the surface. Just lightly roughing it up a bit will be enough for the paint to adhere to the surface. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  157. Kelly C says

    April 13, 2017 at 10:29 pm

    This post is old it appears but I’m delving into farmhouse decor and just bought my first piece of furniture to begin this fun journey. It’s a curio caninet with a couple drawers. This article helped me so much and was so simple to understand! Thank you so much and your pieces you have painted are beautiful! 🙂

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 18, 2017 at 10:59 pm

      Thank you Kelly! So glad you found this post helpful!

      Reply
  158. Jasmin says

    April 19, 2017 at 9:39 pm

    How long should I wait for the paint to dry in between coats before I sand?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 24, 2017 at 1:33 pm

      I would follow the instructions on the can, which usually say 2-3 hours or so.

      Reply
  159. Kim V. says

    April 24, 2017 at 2:44 pm

    What brand of paint would you suggest purchasing to paint furniture ?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 24, 2017 at 2:50 pm

      It really depends on what look you are going for. I usually use interior latex and my favorite brands are Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams, but I’ve used Behr Marquis with good results too. If you want more of a shabby chic or distressed look, then I would go with a chalk paint. FolkArt Home Decor Chalk is good, although there are many brands on the market. Milk paint is another popular option if you want an aged/distressed chippy look. If you’re using latex, use a good primer first. I would go with Kilz or Zinsser. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  160. Carolyn says

    May 3, 2017 at 6:22 am

    Hi Erin,
    Thanks for the guide! Is it okay to sand the furniture the day before painting? Or is it best to paint as soon as your finished sanding?
    Thanks!
    -Carolyn

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 8, 2017 at 2:37 pm

      Hi Carolyn! Yes, and yes. You can wait as long as you want to after sanding before you paint. Just make sure the surface is clean and free of any dust or debris before you paint.

      Reply
  161. Samantha says

    May 8, 2017 at 6:07 pm

    Loved the article! I’m painting a bookshelf I had made for my daughter’s room. The color is a light gray-would you recommend the Minwax Poly Wipe-On with light gray?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 8, 2017 at 6:09 pm

      I would probably use Minwax Polycrylic for that instead. It’s water-based, lower odor, and works really well on top of paint. It also comes in a variety of finishes (satin, semi-gloss, gloss). Good luck!

      Reply
  162. Alonni Hill says

    May 21, 2017 at 8:04 pm

    So i was thinking bout repainted a cabinet my aunt just recently gave me but i only have spary paint with primer…can i use that or should i get regural paint? It just for my my bathroom? This will b my first piece n i am nervous but excited at the same time?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 21, 2017 at 10:01 pm

      Hi Alonni! I would use regular paint with a good primer underneath. I would also seal it well, especially if it is going in a bathroom where there tends to be higher humidity. Good luck!

      Reply
  163. kathe cohagen says

    May 30, 2017 at 7:57 pm

    How much primer needs to be sanded off? Your photo seems to show all primer sanded off. I can’t seem to get my primer off my piece without over sanding with a palm sander at 150 grit

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 30, 2017 at 8:15 pm

      Hi Kathe! Sorry for the confusion! That photo is just showing the tack cloth after sanding. I had not yet primed that surface. You do not want to sand off your primer, you simply want to lightly rough it up. Good luck!

      Reply
      • kathe cohagen says

        May 31, 2017 at 8:35 am

        Erin you are a blogging angel! Thank you for replying so quickly! Just saved me from going to hell and back!

        I’ll re-prime the piece I over sanded!

        Reply
        • Erin Spain says

          May 31, 2017 at 3:29 pm

          I’m happy to help!

          Reply
  164. Sarita says

    June 17, 2017 at 9:15 pm

    Hi I want to paint my black bed room set a gray color do I have to strip the color black off completely before I repaint it?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 19, 2017 at 9:15 pm

      No, I would just sand it to rough it up, prime it, and then paint.

      Reply
  165. Larisa Kamp says

    July 9, 2017 at 4:27 pm

    Hi Erin,
    I’ve been working slowly painting a buffet for the past two weeks that has a lot of fretwork- it was brand new and white and I’m painting it navy blue. I have painted/sanded four coats so far and it’s finally looking dark- whew! I think I’m going to do one fifth and final coat but would like your advise… I noticed that sometimes I ended up with roller marks across the long top of the buffet- I’m using a small foam roller made for cabinetry. I’m trying to do thin coats but perhaps they are too thin? Do you think I need a bit more paint and then it would level off better? I also read one tutorial that said maybe water down the paint a little, or use Floeteol. I just want this to be the last and best coat and not have wasted my time! Also, will the protectant potentially hide any marks, or only make them worse?
    Thanks for your time,
    Larisa

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 10, 2017 at 8:30 pm

      Hi Larisa! You could try a little bit thicker coat, but sometimes those foam rollers do leave marks. I’ve never tried Floetrol but I know some people who swear by it, so might be worth a try! Another option is to use a paint sprayer to avoid any marks. Good luck.

      Reply
  166. Larisa Kamp says

    July 12, 2017 at 11:57 am

    Thanks for the reply- I got the fifth coat on and just made sure the roller was filled with paint and it worked well.
    Last question- just bought the Minwax Wipe On Poly in Satin that you suggested. The can suggests 2-3 coats and sanding in between. Is this what you suggest for painted furniture as well? Many of the product reviews on Amazon say different things- sanding/no sanding, up to 10 coats (!), etc. Not sure if it’s different for seating just wood, vs painted furniture, and appreciate your advise for this final step!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 27, 2017 at 9:09 pm

      Yes, that’s what I usually do. I normally use 2 coats on the sides and 3 coats on any surface that will see a lot of wear and tear (tops mostly).

      Reply
  167. Tracey says

    July 19, 2017 at 11:08 am

    Hi Erin, Thank you so much for the step by step instructions. I’m attempting my first furniture painting project and I have a question. I bought the oil-based Kilz primer you recommended. When my husband saw that he said I should use the primer we already have which is Kilz 2 latex. Will there be any difference? He thought the latex would show less brush/roller strokes and cut down on my sanding but I know you specifically recommended the other one. He does not do any kind of furniture work but he is very handy and rebuilt our house from the studs. So, I’m coming to the expert for clarification. 🙂 Thanks!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 27, 2017 at 9:05 pm

      Latex is fine! As long as you aren’t painting over oil-based paint, you’ll be fine.

      Reply
  168. Jordan says

    August 16, 2017 at 3:59 pm

    Hi! I recently finished my first painting project but am not happy with the finished product. I used a sprayer to get a frush stroke free finish but then when I coated it with the Minwax Polycrylic it left terrible brush strokes. Any tips how to get rid of those? I have a hand sander also, but the 220 grit i’ve been using between coats took off the paint also.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 21, 2017 at 8:16 pm

      The key to Polycrylic is to apply extremely thin coats. If the coats are too thick, it will show the brush strokes. You may have to just lightly sand with extremely fine sandpaper and give it another try.

      Reply
  169. Linda Cronkhite says

    August 25, 2017 at 5:44 pm

    Very easy to follow would like to know how long to wait between coats

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 28, 2017 at 7:37 pm

      I normally follow the instructions on the can since different brands and formulas can vary, but generally for latex paint I wait about 2-3 hours.

      Reply
  170. Naomi Oliver-Dring says

    September 25, 2017 at 3:27 am

    Thank you for the tips! I’ve painted a wooden table yesterday with a matt wood finish paint. I sanded it first and then painted two coats. (no primer!)

    What I didn’t think about was wiping a table that’s a matt finish paint. It’s pourus so I need to do a satin top coat. What should I use and do I have to start again?!

    Naomi

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 28, 2017 at 8:36 pm

      I usually use Minwax Polycrylic as a topcoat. It does come in a Satin formula, so you could try that.

      Reply
  171. Bianca Doran says

    October 10, 2017 at 11:41 am

    Hi Erin. I recently purchased a new beige upholstered panel bed. Want to modernize our dressers and I am torn what color to paint them? They are old traditional espresso colored furniture.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 12, 2017 at 8:26 pm

      Hmm, what other colors do you have in the space?

      Reply
  172. Annie says

    November 12, 2017 at 6:33 pm

    Hi! In the second photo (with the ‘Welcome to our Home’ sign), I’m wondering what the wall colour is.

    Beautiful work! So impressed with all of the pieces!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 15, 2017 at 10:12 pm

      Thanks Annie! It’s “Nocturnal Gray” by Benjamin Moore.

      Reply
  173. Marianne Sophia says

    November 18, 2017 at 2:03 am

    Hi Erin,
    This is so useful thank you!!
    How long my should you wait after painting a layer of paint before sanding and painting again?
    Thank you,

    Marianne

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 30, 2017 at 9:06 pm

      I usually wait a few hours. I generally follow the instructions on the can about when to add a second coat, as it can vary depending on the product.

      Reply
  174. Shauna says

    November 26, 2017 at 11:26 am

    Your furniture pieces look great! I have been trying to sell an old (but beloved) set of dressers. After viewing your article I am going to try to salvage them. Thank you for your inspiration!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 30, 2017 at 9:03 pm

      Thanks, Shauna! So glad you found the post helpful!

      Reply
  175. Afshan says

    January 29, 2018 at 1:16 am

    Hello Erin! Your work is beautiful and tutorial is very helpful. I just want to know if I can paint wooden furniture with acrylic paints? Will they peel off?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 28, 2018 at 8:04 pm

      Thank you! I probably wouldn’t. Not sure that they would be durable enough. If you try it, I would be sure to use a really good primer. And let me know how it goes!

      Reply
  176. Jessica says

    January 29, 2018 at 12:24 pm

    Do you sand by hand or do you use power tools, like an orbital sander?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 28, 2018 at 8:04 pm

      I do both, but generally an orbital sander for larger surfaces.

      Reply
  177. melissa longoria says

    February 23, 2018 at 1:11 am

    So glad I found this article! We’re doing our first piece of furniture ever, a desk for our daughter. I’m a little nervous about it, wish us luck!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 28, 2018 at 8:05 pm

      Good luck! Hope it goes well!

      Reply
  178. Faye says

    March 15, 2018 at 4:50 am

    When sanding in between coats do you wait for each coat to fully dry then sand down and repeat? I’ve seen a vintage wooden bed that I love but the wood is far too dark and I have no idea how to paint it !!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 9, 2018 at 9:37 pm

      Yes, wait for it to fully dry. Lightly sand between coats, just enough to barely rough it up.

      Reply
  179. Brian says

    March 28, 2018 at 5:48 pm

    Very nice work! I have to ask, on that black and white piece. Is it satin, semi gloss, or gloss? Thanks!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 9, 2018 at 9:35 pm

      It’s semi-gloss.

      Reply
  180. Courtney Bishop says

    April 13, 2018 at 9:11 pm

    This was SO incredibly helpful. Thank you for sharing this post. I am currently working on a dresser with chalk paint–so much fun to paint with!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 14, 2018 at 8:08 pm

      Thanks, Courtney! I’m glad you found it helpful!

      Reply
  181. Victoria Mai says

    April 15, 2018 at 4:04 am

    This was amazing. Perfectly put together. And I am a girl who needs things dumbed down. Thank you so much! Now I’m off to get my hands dirty.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      April 16, 2018 at 2:03 pm

      Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!

      Reply
  182. Ashley says

    April 22, 2018 at 4:58 am

    What kind of prep do I need to do if I’m painting over a piece that I previously painted with latex paint?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 6, 2018 at 7:20 pm

      Just lightly sand to rough it up, then prime and paint.

      Reply
  183. Cassandra says

    April 24, 2018 at 8:46 am

    Does it matter what kind of primer you use? I have read some and it recommends using a bonding primer is that important

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 6, 2018 at 7:20 pm

      The primer you use will depend on the type of paint you are using. For interior latex paint, I use a water-based primer. I recommend Kilz or Zinsser. Hope this helps.

      Reply
  184. Tess says

    May 8, 2018 at 4:32 pm

    Wish I’d found this sooner! I have a question, I have a table that has previously been sanded with a coarse sandpaper. That’s it, just sanded, but there are a lot of fine scratches on it now. If I want to actually paint and finish it do I need to worry about those scratches? Would a finer sandpaper help buff them out???

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 15, 2018 at 8:05 pm

      I would try using fine sandpaper and see if you can smooth it out a bit before painting over it.

      Reply
  185. Tammy M says

    June 6, 2018 at 6:20 pm

    Thanks so much! Followed your instructions to a tee and am really happy with how my painted dresser project turned out! I am still letting the wax set for the next couple days and I cannot wait to put some new hardware on the drawers!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 18, 2018 at 7:24 pm

      Awesome! I’m so glad you found the tutorial helpful.

      Reply
  186. Caroline says

    June 20, 2018 at 12:01 pm

    Oh my god! It’s been a while. I remember when I read this post few years ago. I was I newbie and since then I started doing my workshops in Edinburgh. Can you believe that? Thank you Erin. The journey was long but now I teach others how to paint furniture instead of working in the bank, something that I hated doing. Now, all furniture in my house are second hand, repaired and repainted!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      July 2, 2018 at 7:13 pm

      Hi Caroline! Thank you so much for your message. It made my day! I am SO happy to hear that you are now doing something you love, and I am so glad that you found my tutorial helpful. Thank you for letting me know! That really is awesome. Take care!

      Reply
  187. Kellye says

    July 11, 2018 at 9:12 am

    Oh my goodness. This is such great information. I’m going to try my hand at painting this weekend and was terrified until I read this. Everything I needed to know in one handy location. Than you!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 15, 2018 at 10:02 pm

      So glad you found it helpful! Thanks!

      Reply
  188. Anita says

    July 21, 2018 at 3:17 pm

    Well, I’m doing my first piece (desk) and taking your advice Erin. Thank you! ???? A. Sweet

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 15, 2018 at 10:00 pm

      Thanks, Anita! Hope it went well!

      Reply
  189. Rose says

    July 22, 2018 at 2:51 am

    May I ask what paint you used for the blue dresser? It’s absolutely stunning!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 15, 2018 at 10:00 pm

      Thank you! It’s Benjamin Moore Summer Nights.

      Reply
  190. Kasey says

    July 29, 2018 at 5:21 pm

    Just want to say thanks for your simple yet comprehensive instructions! My dresser now looks amazing!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 15, 2018 at 9:56 pm

      So glad you found my post helpful! Thanks for letting me know. 🙂

      Reply
  191. Nina Swierczewski says

    August 8, 2018 at 6:47 pm

    What would you recommend to use if my daughter wanted to paint abstract design on the piece . What kind of paint for base color and then couid acrylic be used for the “picture”
    And if so what kind of sealer ?
    Thank you
    Nina S.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 15, 2018 at 9:54 pm

      I usually use latex paint on furniture, and yes you could use acrylic for the picture since both are water-based. I like to seal mine with Minwax Polycrylic. Hope this helps!

      Reply
  192. Kathy says

    August 12, 2018 at 1:14 pm

    Do you recommend 2-3 coats of sealant as directions say? I’m using polycrylic.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 15, 2018 at 9:52 pm

      Yes, I do. I typically will use 3 coats for the top of a piece of furniture that’s going to see a lot of wear and tear, and 2 coats for the sides/front.

      Reply
  193. Patti Hooten says

    August 14, 2018 at 2:05 pm

    Do you paint the drawers inside and out or clearcoat?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 15, 2018 at 9:52 pm

      I don’t paint the inside of the drawers, no. Just the fronts.

      Reply
  194. Diane Courts says

    August 28, 2018 at 12:16 pm

    This was extremely helpful. I have a dresser Im thinking of repainting. I have everything ready except the paint. How do you determine how much paint to buy? It seems more complicated then figuring out wall square footage.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 3, 2018 at 9:14 pm

      A quart is usually plenty for me.

      Reply
  195. Vicki B says

    September 10, 2018 at 1:03 pm

    So I’ve painted furniture before but never properly and was looking forward to how great this would come out! I painted two coats of an exterior latex semigloss on sanding between coats. After it set for over 24 hours I did the wipe on poly as suggested. I did one coat intending to do 3 so it would be nice and protected. That was 2 days Ago and the first coat is still tacky. I added a dehumidifier to the room yesterday as I live in Louisiana and thought humidity might be at play. Any advice on what’s gone wrong and what I might try now?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 10, 2018 at 4:23 pm

      Hmm. That’s strange. I’ve never used exterior latex on furniture before, but I don’t see why it would be taking so long to cure. I generally use interior latex and I really like using a water-based topcoat like Polycrylic on painted furniture just since it’s easier to clean up. Polyurethane is pretty indestructable as a topcoat though. Usually if it is tacky it can mean that the layer was applied too thick, in which case you may just have to wait it out for it to cure. The coats must be applied very thinly. Humidity could definitely play a role too. I would give it a few more days and if you’re still having trouble, maybe sand off the topcoat, add one more coat of paint, and try again with water-based Polycrylic. Sorry you are having issues! I know that’s frustrating. Good luck!

      Reply
  196. Cherie Lembcke says

    October 1, 2018 at 9:51 am

    Thanks for a great step by step tutorial! I have a console table being made and I’m planning on painting it antique black…however I want it a flat/matte finish. I do not want any satin sheen tonit. What do you recommend for a paint?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 11, 2018 at 10:01 pm

      I would use chalk finish paint, which is very matte. Good luck!

      Reply
  197. Richard Mathena says

    October 5, 2018 at 7:54 am

    amazing idea and great post thank you.

    Reply
  198. Tyneshia sanders says

    October 13, 2018 at 7:13 pm

    I don’t know where to begin. I’ll pay for a video chat. My dresser is ruined i need more than words training

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 14, 2018 at 4:40 pm

      Can you describe the problem so I’ll have a better idea of what’s happening? Thanks!

      Reply
  199. Erin Herne says

    October 18, 2018 at 10:15 am

    How long do you wait in to sand the coats of paint? Some paint stays tacky for like a day and this would take me forever to finish if I had to wait a while day to sand in between coats.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 24, 2018 at 9:27 pm

      Usually a couple of hours. When the paint is dry, you can sand. If you’re using interior latex it shouldn’t stay tacky for that long unless you have extreme humidity.

      Reply
  200. Handy Squad says

    November 5, 2018 at 4:33 am

    I liked your tips on how to paint over a furniture. Your work is stunning, especially the blue drawer. Great post, keep up the good work

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 29, 2018 at 12:19 pm

      Thank you!

      Reply
  201. Kim Bierman says

    November 21, 2018 at 2:12 pm

    Hi Erin ~ Great Tutorial! I will be painting my outdoor rocking chairs this spring. What kind of paint do you recommend (Interior or Exterior Semi-gloss) and which topcoat should I use? Thanks so much! Kim

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 29, 2018 at 12:18 pm

      I would definitely use an exterior semi-gloss and probably a polyurethane but do check to make sure whatever type you buy is suitable for outdoor use. Good luck!

      Reply
  202. James Draper says

    November 24, 2018 at 10:52 am

    Beautifully well written and beyond helpful – thank you for sharing this awesome guide with us Erin!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 29, 2018 at 12:17 pm

      Thank you!

      Reply
  203. Elizabeth C says

    November 30, 2018 at 8:08 am

    I loved this article. My daughter has my old bedroom furniture and it definitely needs a makeover. There is some type of coating on the top surface which I assume was there to prevent damage. Can I sand that off and paint over it?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      December 9, 2018 at 8:02 pm

      You should be able to, yes.

      Reply
  204. Elba says

    December 3, 2018 at 9:35 pm

    Than you so much! I appreciate your kindness

    Reply
  205. Phil S says

    January 2, 2019 at 8:17 am

    Hi. Great article. How much primer and topcoat would you recommed I buy for a wide 5 drawer chest, assuming I am painting the outside of the drawers only and allowing for 2 coats of primer and 2 topcoats.

    I seem to have the choice of 750ml or 2.5 litre cans (UK sizes). 1 litre = 0.22 US gallons

    If successful I might do 2 or 3 pieces.

    Thanks

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 21, 2019 at 9:25 pm

      I usually buy a quart of each and it seems to be plenty.

      Reply
  206. Meredith Haynes says

    January 3, 2019 at 5:54 pm

    Hi! This is (I’m sure) a dumb question but I’m a total newbie. When you sand between coats of paint, how much sanding should take place? Just a light dusting or really get after it? I never would’ve thought to sand between paint coats so I want to make sure I do it correctly! Thank you! 🙂

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 21, 2019 at 9:25 pm

      Just a very light sanding to give the next coat something to grab onto. Not a dumb question!

      Reply
  207. Sandra Merino says

    January 9, 2019 at 8:13 am

    Great article! I’m planning to paint a piece of laminate furniture soon. Did you ever get around to writing a post about painting laminate?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 21, 2019 at 9:24 pm

      I don’t have an article about it, but you can use the same process. Good luck!

      Reply
  208. Maria Moore says

    February 1, 2019 at 5:18 pm

    Hi, Erin!

    I’m trying to figure out which paint for wood is the best for painting my vintage wooden chairs. I’ve already read about a lot of other paint brands here that seem to be great: Renaissance Chalk Paint , Rust-Oleum, Annie Sloan and even more. It’s overwhelming – so many options are out there so I’m confused which one to choose. Actually I’m afraid to spoil my chairs by choosing the wrong option.

    Could you recommend something please? Thanks!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 3, 2019 at 3:21 pm

      It really just depends on what look you are going for. All of the paints you mentioned are good. I usually prefer a more modern look so I like interior latex paint, but Plaid has a Home Decor Chalk finish paint that I have used and liked too. You could always test a few different ones on some scrap pieces of wood first to see which look you like best. Good luck!

      Reply
  209. Heather says

    February 11, 2019 at 9:34 am

    Hi Erin this is exactly what i needed to know. It’s very helpful and now I know how much time I could have wasted. I would have sanded once and painted. Period! I’ll be trying this soon for my new room upgrade. Thanks again and can I get these brands in the UK?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 11, 2019 at 7:38 pm

      I’m not sure if these brands are available in the UK actually, but I’m sure you can find products of equal quality. Sorry I’m not familiar with the UK market!

      Reply
  210. Darlene Gamble-Johnston says

    February 19, 2019 at 7:14 pm

    Love your furniture. I have a problem…
    I sanded my final coat of paint and it looks scratched. What can I do to fix it and look great.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      February 19, 2019 at 8:01 pm

      Hi Darlene! You don’t want to sand your final coat, only the previous coats. I would sand it smooth and add another coat and then leave it to cure or add a topcoat like furniture wax or polycrylic. Good luck!

      Reply
  211. Akshay says

    March 19, 2019 at 12:46 am

    I loved what you have shared with us. I haven’t painted much furniture before, but now I am planning to paint my furniture. These are some great tips, that will help me a lot and others as well. I’m pinning so I’ll have it available when I need it! Thank you for the tips! I loved them. Looking forward to another of your blog.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      March 26, 2019 at 10:50 pm

      Thanks! So glad you found it helpful!

      Reply
  212. Lora says

    March 28, 2019 at 2:15 pm

    WONDERFUL tutorial. Thank you so much for sharing. I do have a question for you. I am in the process of re-painting a night stand for my son. After I apply the polycrylic, do I need to use the fine grit sandpaper one last time? Or once I apply poly, am I finished with the sanding?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      March 31, 2019 at 8:11 pm

      Poly is the last step. No sanding after that. Good luck!

      Reply
  213. Sheila Bassett says

    March 31, 2019 at 9:36 am

    Hi! Thanks so much for this info. I’ve just painted my first project. A table and 4 chairs. I used a wagner spray gun. I sanded A LOT because the chairs were pretty shiny. I used sherwin William’s primer and paint. I sanded after priming and between each of my 3 coats. I waited 7 days after using my primer(all water based). This was sherwin Williams’ recommendation. All seemed good, so I sanded and used a tack cloth to clean and then sprayed my first coat. I waited a few days(my day off) to sand and do a 2nd coat and then a few more days to sand and do a 3rd coat. After bringing the table inside, I noticed that the finish looks very uneven. Dull in some spots, shiny in others. Also a small amount of orange peeling. But, I was tired of this project and wanted my car space back in the garage. So I applied the minwax finishing wax and thought it might help with the unevenness. It didn’t. This only occurred on the top of the table. The base of the table looks perfect. Any thoughts on what I can do to salvage this?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      March 31, 2019 at 8:15 pm

      That is so strange. Hmm. You’ll have to sand off the coat of wax before doing anything, but I would try to add maybe another coat of paint to see if it helps the unevenness. Did you water down your paint at all before using the sprayer? The orange peeling is odd though. Do you know what it was stained with before?

      Reply
      • Sheila Bassett says

        April 2, 2019 at 7:25 pm

        Not sure what it was previously stained with. The orange peel is probably poor technique or improper settings on my sprayer. I am LOATHE to do anymore sanding. Have you ever tried a deglosser before? I’m wondering if I can use that instead of sanding to get the wax coat off before repainting. I appreciate your help!

        Reply
        • Erin Spain says

          April 3, 2019 at 11:49 am

          I’ve never used a deglosser but I know people who have had luck with them. Might be worth a try. I’ve used paint stripper (Citristrip) but never tried anything on wax before. I wish I could be of more help! Good luck. Let me know how it goes!

          Reply
  214. professional painters Calgary says

    April 25, 2019 at 4:41 am

    Very Helpful tutorial as painting the furniture is not as easy as it can be but by looking at your tutorials it seems to be easy and helpful and of course it is great to take help from this guide as it is helpful for others too to take guidance from this blog.

    Reply
  215. Sam says

    May 12, 2019 at 2:40 am

    How long do you wait until you can sand between paint coats and after priming?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 20, 2019 at 5:32 pm

      I usually wait a couple of hours for it to fully dry.

      Reply
  216. Adila says

    May 27, 2019 at 6:46 pm

    Hi!
    Thanks for this tutorial, I’ve used it along my first adventure of upholstering.
    Would you recommend to sand after the last coat of paint before sealing and waxing it?
    About to do the last layer of paint now!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 27, 2019 at 7:37 pm

      Nope! No sanding the last coat.

      Reply
  217. Sahriyar Selim says

    May 28, 2019 at 5:34 am

    Your post is very helpful. Thanks a lot

    Reply
  218. Amanda Watts says

    May 28, 2019 at 11:08 am

    Hi! I have been working on a set of dressers for awhile now and the stain really didnt turn out how I wanted it to so I have decided to paint them. We sanded them down bare and than applied 1 coat of stain. So I have a few questions before starting to paint:
    1. Should I lightly re-sand the dressors before painting?
    2. I am paining them black, do I need to apply a primer?
    3. If I am paining them black do you still recommend doing a 2-3 coats?

    Thank you,
    Amanda

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 6, 2019 at 8:53 pm

      Yes, I would lightly sand them just enough to rough them up a tiny bit. I wouldn’t spend much time on it. Yes, I always use primer. And yes, I always do 2-3 light coats as opposed to 1-2 heavier ones. You’ll get a smoother finish.

      Reply
  219. Amir Mohtashemi says

    June 11, 2019 at 1:22 am

    That’s beautiful, Thanks for sharing the tips.

    Reply
  220. Marilyn Mullett says

    June 23, 2019 at 3:17 pm

    I’ve visited both Lowe’s and Home Depot and neither one had Minwax Finishing Wax. I’m painting my project white and wonder if you could make a suggestion. Is the Finishing Wax the only safe product to use on white? Thank you. I love your tutorial, it really helps!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      June 23, 2019 at 6:37 pm

      Hello! Unfortunately Home Depot stopped carrying Minwax products. I thought that Lowe’s was going to carry it, and I’ve seen it at Ace Hardware. You can also order it online. Minwax Polycrylic is another good option but if you can’t find Minwax brand then I would look for a similar water-based polycrylic product. I always try to avoid oil-based topcoats over white paint to prevent yellowing. I’m sure another brand of furniture wax would work fine too, I just don’t have experience with them. Good luck!

      Reply
  221. Tisa Freck says

    September 28, 2019 at 4:01 pm

    How long do you let piece dry between the primer and paint coats?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 13, 2019 at 9:11 pm

      Usually a couple of hours. It should specify on the can but 2 hours usually suffices.

      Reply
  222. Janise B. says

    October 6, 2019 at 10:59 am

    Do I apply the top coat on just the top of the table or the legs too? Thank you in advance. 🙂

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 13, 2019 at 9:12 pm

      The legs too, but I often will add an extra coat to the top since it sees the most wear and tear.

      Reply
  223. Lloyd Bronson says

    November 4, 2019 at 11:50 am

    I’m glad that your article brings to light that one should prep for the painting job as much as humanly possible to ensure that no issues arise. My spouse and I are interested in getting some new furniture for our kitchen, as we kind of ruined our current chairs by trying to paint them. We’ll look into some furniture stores near us to see what they can provide.

    Reply
  224. Gurdeep kumar says

    December 27, 2019 at 3:37 am

    I liked your tips on how to paint over a furniture. Your work is stunning, especially the blue drawer. Great post, keep up the good work ! Thanks you !!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 10, 2020 at 3:13 pm

      Thank you!

      Reply
  225. Aubri clegg says

    April 7, 2020 at 5:45 am

    What sealant would you recommend for finishing a painted kitchen table?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 1, 2020 at 4:36 pm

      I would use a water-based Polyurethane or water-based Polycrylic.

      Reply
  226. Tanya says

    April 15, 2020 at 12:14 pm

    Hello, Erin ~

    First, thank yoh for the great furniture-painting tips. I’m embarking on my first piece of furniture this wknd!

    What is the brand and color of the dresser in the image with the kids photos. Such a creative use of the clipboards to display your children’s art.

    Thanks again!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 1, 2020 at 4:35 pm

      Thank you! The color is Summer Nights by Benjamin Moore.

      Reply
  227. Sarah Daisy Elliott says

    April 26, 2020 at 7:20 am

    Hey Erin

    Do you sand after the last coat of paint before the sealer?

    Thanks Sarah

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 1, 2020 at 4:35 pm

      No, don’t sand the last coat.

      Reply
  228. Angela Rudolph says

    May 1, 2020 at 4:04 pm

    Hi Erin. Thank you for such clear easy directions. Can you tell me what color that beautiful blue is above? Ask what finish product would you use in a shade like that. I am refinishing my kitchen table so I want something more durable than a wax. Is that a color you would say would yellow under polyurethane? I had settled for a lighter shade of blue until I saw the piece above!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 1, 2020 at 4:31 pm

      The color is Summer Nights by Benjamin Moore. I would use a water-based polyurethane or Polycrylic. I typically use Polycrylic.

      Reply
  229. Melissa Uribe says

    May 3, 2020 at 2:44 pm

    I’ve followed your instructions and can’t seem to get a final coat that doesn’t show brush strokes or kiss marks from the foam roller. I’m painting a coffee table white. I have 3 coats of primer and 2 of paint. I have the mon was finishing paste and now I’m confused if this will turn it yellow. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      May 6, 2020 at 10:25 am

      Hmm, that’s odd. As long as you are applying really thin coats and sanding in between, it shouldn’t be an issue, but if it is you can always add a product like Floetrol to your paint which helps eliminate brush strokes. The finishing paste should not turn your piece yellow.

      Reply
  230. Julia Morrison says

    July 2, 2020 at 1:05 pm

    Hi Erin,

    This post was so so helpful! I just repainted a bedroom set white and was really nervous it would look streaky. Your advice helped me a ton! I followed it every step of the process. Thank you so much!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 9, 2020 at 12:33 pm

      So glad you found it helpful!

      Reply
  231. Kathleen Harris says

    July 7, 2020 at 2:31 pm

    Hi Erin!
    I know you posted this a long time ago, so I’m not sure if you’re still checking comments. Wanted to still say thank you for taking the time to describe this process. I’ve used it and your video to paint and wallpaper the back of an old bookshelf I was given. Everything has turned out great, and I sealed with the finishing wax you recommended. The only issue I’m having is a tacky feel to the bookshelf now that it has dried for a few days. Did I do something wrong? I don’t want to put anything in or on the shelves for fear they may stick a bit and mess up my hard work or damage the books themselves! Any ideas how to get the tackiness to firm up?

    Reply
    • Kathleen Harris says

      July 9, 2020 at 9:33 am

      Nevermind! Tackiness is gone now. I live in the south with high humidity so I think it just took a little longer to dry.
      Thanks again!

      Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 9, 2020 at 12:33 pm

      Hi Kathleen! Sorry you are experiencing tackiness. It could be that the wax was applied a little bit too thick, or it could be a humidity issue. If it’s still tacky then I would sand it and try applying Polycrylic instead.

      Reply
  232. Amanda says

    August 12, 2020 at 5:07 pm

    Hello! You’ve inspired me to try this myself, and I’m excited to get started! I’m repairing and re-painting a very small end table/cabinet that I rescued from the curb, and I’ve just purchased all of my supplies. One question I had is: how many coats of the Minwax Polycrylic do you typically use on furniture? From watching the video, it seemed like one was sufficient, but the can recommends 3 coats. Also, do you think 1/2 pint is enough of the top coat for a very small piece? Or would you recommend going out for more? Thanks in advance!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      August 12, 2020 at 5:13 pm

      The small can should be plenty. A little goes a long way. I typically use 1-2 coats for the sides or surfaces of the furniture that won’t see much wear and tear, and then 2-3 coats for the top.

      Reply
  233. Miranda says

    August 15, 2020 at 8:10 am

    Hi Erin! This is great thank you! I am painting a little table for my daughter to use for virtual school this year. It needs to be very cleanable! What top coat do you recommend? I plan to paint it pastel colors and I prefer less fumes and off gassing. Thank you in advance for your suggestions!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 22, 2020 at 11:24 pm

      I would use a water-based polyurethane or Polycrylic.

      Reply
  234. Kathy says

    August 17, 2020 at 12:01 pm

    So I accidentally bought the MINWAX FINISHING WAX but oil instead of the paste and it’s been 24 hours and it feels as if it’s not dried. Is that normal or how should I approach this to where the feeling isn’t there anymore?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 22, 2020 at 11:24 pm

      The oil is a totally different product and I’ve never used it before. If it won’t dry properly then unfortunately you would have to sand and start over.

      Reply
  235. Linda says

    August 21, 2020 at 11:11 am

    Hi Erin. I am painting a maple kitchen table and chairs that has been painted previously. Thank you for your guidance in how to prep and apply paint. I am wonder if I should use the Minwax wipe on poly or the Minwax finishing wax as a protector on these pieces? Thank you.

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 22, 2020 at 11:23 pm

      You can use either but the wipe-on poly will provide more durable protection since those pieces will see a lot of wear and tear.

      Reply
  236. Noelle says

    September 16, 2020 at 11:04 am

    I’ve done an end table and a dresser now following your tutorial. I even did the dresser white with a black top like you did one of your pieces. I’m so pleased at how they turned out! Thank you so much!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      September 22, 2020 at 11:22 pm

      Awesome! I’m so happy to hear that.

      Reply
  237. Julie says

    November 2, 2020 at 2:16 pm

    Hi, thanks for the tutorial! How long to do you wait between coats of paint? Also can i paint a black wood piece a light grey or white?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      November 8, 2020 at 9:17 pm

      Usually a couple hours is enough, but the paint can should specify. You’ll want to wait longer if humidity is high. Yes you can paint a black piece a lighter color, you may just need a couple coats of primer first.

      Reply
  238. Drew says

    January 4, 2021 at 3:47 am

    You mentioned not using polyurethane on white paint. What do you use to seal something you e painted white?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 5, 2021 at 1:56 pm

      I usually use water based Polycrylic or furniture paste wax.

      Reply
  239. Nija Walker says

    September 9, 2021 at 2:39 am

    hey whats up 🙂 just wanna say thanks for the in depth instructions, straight to the point 📝. do you happen to know or remember the paint color you used on that first blueish dresser in the examples. love it 🪚

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 24, 2021 at 4:49 pm

      Summer Nights by Benjamin Moore

      Reply
  240. Allie says

    September 12, 2021 at 3:19 pm

    Hi Erin!
    First time furniture painter here! I have a solid wood table I’d like to paint but there are lines in the top (catches lots of crumbs with my little ones!). Any advice for how to go about painting those parts? Thanks I’m advance!

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      October 24, 2021 at 4:47 pm

      If you don’t want the lines to be there, you could use wood filler and sand it smooth before painting. Otherwise, just use a small brush to get into the lines and then roll over the rest.

      Reply
  241. Jennifer Mathena says

    November 7, 2021 at 12:04 am

    Hi, Erin,
    Thanks for the great tutorial. We’ve been working off and on for a couple of years on a French Provincial bedroom set. We stained the tops and finally got a surface we like (ie SMOOTH). Now we’re painting the bodies of them all. BUT, we can’t seem to get a smooth surface. Everything I’ve seen says to sand between coats, but every time we sand, we’re back down to raw wood before we get smooth. HELP??? Any suggestions? We’ve tried brushes, rollers, sanding. We actually painted the entire nightstand and had to strip it back down it was so bad. Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated! We’re just looking for a nice, smooth surface. Thanks!!!
    Jennifer

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 15, 2022 at 9:33 am

      When I say sand between coats, I mean take a low grit (220+) sheet of sand paper or sanding block and barely smooth it over. Don’t sand the coat off or use anything too gritty. It shouldn’t take long at all and you’re just smoothing the brush strokes or roller marks, you’re not putting any actual effort into it. Also make sure you’re painting thin coats and not too thick cause that will make it hard to get a good finish too. Good luck!

      Reply
  242. Liz says

    November 11, 2021 at 12:11 pm

    What was would you use for white paint?

    Reply
    • Erin Spain says

      January 15, 2022 at 9:31 am

      My favorite is Pure White from Sherwin Williams. I usually have it color matched in Behr Marquee since I can buy that at Home Depot and I like the formula.

      Reply
  243. Joe Dennison says

    November 12, 2021 at 9:17 am

    I really appreciate this blog is very informative, I like the way you tied all the information together.

    Reply

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