I recently built a dining room buffet table, and this was one of those projects that didn’t go as planned. Originally, I had planned to weld a metal base for this piece (which I still plan on doing, hence the title of this post being “Version 1.”) If you happen to watch my Instagram stories then you know I’ve been struggling with this base. I couldn’t get my welds to hold and it’s been very frustrating, especially welding out in this Atlanta heat. But I came up with a backup plan, and decided I will share multiple versions of this buffet table. Today’s version has a wooden base and is actually quite easy to build. Read on for the full tutorial!
Disclosure: This post is sponsored by The Home Depot. All opinions are my own.
Supply List:
- 3 Project panels (or you can laminate your own boards), cut to: 2 at 4 ft. long and 20″ wide (for the top and bottom); 1 at 46 1/2″ long and 20″ wide (for the middle shelf); and 2 at 11 1/2″ x 20″ (for the sides).
- 1 x 6, cut into 4 pieces at 20″ long (for the cubby dividers)
- Pocket hole jig
- 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
- Milwaukee #2 Phillips Shockwave 2″ bit
- Drill
- 1 1/4″ Phillips head wood screws
- Stain (I used Special Walnut)
- Cotton rag
- Primer
- White Paint
- Painter’s tape
- Polycrylic topcoat
- 2 – 2″x 4′ wooden dowels cut into 4 pieces at 21″ long (for the legs)
- 1×4 cut as follows: 2 pieces at 46″ long and 2 pieces at 10″ long (for the base frame which attaches to the legs)
- Countersinking drill bit
- Sander
DIY DINING ROOM BUFFET TABLE
Step 1
Cut all of your wood to the dimensions listed above. The total size of this piece is 34″ H x 4′ L, but of course can be modified to your desired dimensions. Sand everything smooth.
Step 2
Assemble your main piece. Measure and mark where you want your cubby divider boards to go (this just depends on whether you want them to be equal distance apart or create a longer cubby in the middle like I did). Lay one 4′ long board down, and the side that you want to end up as your “top” should be facing down. Attach your 1×6 dividers and your side pieces using pocket holes.
Attach your middle shelf piece to the top of the dividers using regular wood screws. Line up your second set of dividers and attach those to the middle board using pocket holes. Lay your second 4′ long board across your assembled piece, and this will end up being the bottom of the buffet. Attach it to the sides and dividers using 1 1/4″ wood screws. I opted to pre-drill my holes using a countersinking drill bit, then I used a Milwaukee #2 Phillips Shockwave 2″ bit to drive the screws into the bottom. You can also use these to attach the dowel legs.
These come in a 15 pack and are made of custom alloy 76 steel which maximizes resistance to wear and shock. Their optimized shock zone geometry absorbs 3 times more torque versus other impact bits and provides up to 30 times longer life, and their machined tips reduce stripping. Durability is key with driver bits and these are awesome. They also come with a convenient little carry case.
Step 3
Build your base. I created a frame using 2 pieces of 1×4 cut to 46″ long and 2 pieces cut to 10″ long. I attached them using pocket holes.
Then, I screwed the dowel legs onto each corner. I wanted the base frame to be smaller than the actual piece so it wouldn’t show once it was attached.
Step 4
Once your main piece has been fully assembled, flip it over. Stain this and your base. (I used Special Walnut.)
Step 5
After your stain has fully dried, tape off your design. I measured and marked to make sure my tape was placed symmetrically.
Step 6
Prime and paint the whole piece, tape and all.
Peel the tape off when your last coat of paint is still damp.
Step 7
You can add a topcoat of your choice. I like water-based Polycrylic.
Step 8
Center and attach your base, screwing from the bottom. That’s it! I made my base easy to remove so I will be able to swap it out with a metal one later on.
