I recently shared our master bedroom makeover for the One Room Challenge, and one of my favorite projects in the room was this IKEA TARVA Hack.

I transformed the 3-drawer TARVA chest into a custom nightstand for our room, and our existing desk serves as the nightstand on the other side. Today, I’ll walk you through the step by step process of how I made over this piece of furniture and created a totally custom look.

Project Supply List:

(Disclosure: Affiliate links included. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

IKEA Tarva 3-Drawer Chest (You can find it on Amazon here.)
Primer
Paint (I used Behr Marquee color matched to Benjamin Moore Onyx in Satin finish)
Paintbrush (I used this Zibra Triangle Brush and the Zibra Chiseled Wedge Brush.)
Glass and Brass handles from Hobby Lobby
Sanding Block
4 Turned Bun Feet (I got mine from The Home Depot. Similar here.)
4 Heavy Duty Metal Top Plates
Drill
(4) – 1/4″ thick x 2″ W Poplar Hobby Boards
Brad Nailer
3/4″ Brad Nails
Wood Glue
Paintable Caulk
Caulking Gun
Wood Filler
Putty Knife
Satin Polycrylic
Saw (I used a miter saw, but a hand saw will do.)

IKEA TARVA HACK TUTORIAL

Step 1

I started with a basic unfinished wood 3-drawer IKEA TARVA chest (here), which costs $79.99. I assembled it as directed.

Step 2

I marked the legs with a pencil where they connect to the base. I wanted to cut them so they would be flush with the bottom, allowing me to add different legs/feet later.

Step 3

I removed the legs and cut them where I had marked my pencil lines, leaving me with about 2 inch blocks. I sanded them and then reattached them to the chest.

Step 4

I attached metal top plates to each corner of the bottom of the chest.

Step 5

I screwed the bun feet into the bases. (They come with bolts already attached to them.)

Step 6

Next, I turned my attention to the drawers. I measured the distance between screws on my new hardware (note, quality control for the Hobby Lobby handles is not top notch, so many of the screws were bent and/or different widths apart.) I marked the distance on painter’s tape and used that as my template, and then drilled holes for the new hardware. I used wood filler to cover the old pre-drilled hole, and then sanded it smooth.

Step 7

I cut 1/4″ thick Poplar hobby board (about 2 inches wide) to fit the perimeter of my drawer fronts using my miter saw, and then attached them with wood glue and brad nails.

Step 8

Next, I caulked all of the seams with paintable DAP caulk, and after it dried I sanded everything smooth.

Step 9

I coated the entire piece with a coat of primer, and then painted it using Behr Marquee color matched to Benjamin Moore’s Onyx in a satin finish, and added a Satin Polycrylic topcoat for protection.